Got all the parts and fitted today. The parts go together easily once you work out how the flap works, TIP – on the flap the long rod goes on the outside of the wing and that is where the spring goes - held in place by a small bracket and screw. All fittings are TORX screws - T20 and T25 https://photos.app.goo.gl/LMyySRH9oXtMy4ZB8 Fitting LHS Take the bottom wing off it makes life easier only 3 nuts Remove the black trim over the rear cylinder heads, one clip near the seat and two screws Remove side trim - 3 screws, one underneath near the beak, the other two are obvious and there are two clips at the top edge as well. See Photo for clip types and location on the side panel https://photos.app.goo.gl/tvaqEHEu6idxMmhA7 the square holes are for the clips https://photos.app.goo.gl/6x8NSkHXbfcsaK5s6 You can now see the holder panel – Take a photo of where the cables are located for indicators and spot lights. Cut the tie wraps; undo the two of the connectors and free up the indicator and riding light cable. Holder panel has two screws at the top and three clips along the top, the bottom uses a locator peg at the bottom of the radiator. Once free ease out the top and lower down over the peg. Clip locations in photo https://photos.app.goo.gl/qE3CMZu19WL7EDqw6 Remove Upper wing and replace with the new one. The four T20 Screws go into plastic – so not too tight! On assembly be careful to locate the Air intake rubber guide over the intake vent, I gave the rubber and the vent a light smear of oil (Wurth 20/40 or WD40) and it went on easily. Fitting RHS Same as above but you don’t need to remove the lower wing as there are less hoses etc in the way. Plus on the RHS there is a small rubber locator peg for the rear cylinder trim attached to the rear brake cylinder bracket – easy to miss. Took me about 1hour 30 on LHS and 1 hour on RHS (yes I did the LHS first) TOP TIPS – Spray 20/40 (or WD40) along the trim gap at the top of the side panel before you start and all long the top of the rear cylinder trim as well. The oil then spreads and hopefully goes on the hidden clips on the panels (The clips are are diamond shaped and can be hard to pull out) Also locate the tie wraps for indicator and lights wiring in the holes on the black holder before you replace it, just push the tie wrap in and then out of the holes but don't do it up until the holder panel is back in place and finally located, the extra 30 minutes was mainly taken up with me fiddling the tie wraps into place on the LHS after fitting the holder in place! Ride tomorrow so will see what happens PS Will post the list of parts when I get the invoice.
I took the opportunity to test ride a V4S yesterday, while my 1260MTS was in for its Desmo service yesterday with Riders, Bridgwater. I have TBH, I wasn't really that keen as I categorically DON'T like the look of the bike whatsoever, something I've previously noted on here. That said, I felt it right and proper to give the bike a chance to see how it went, despite the 'bag of spanners' looks. In summary, dynamically a very capable machine and the engine is an absolute peach. More of that another time perhaps, but relevant to this post, was how unbelievably filthy I got when riding this bike in what to be fair, was far from decent weather. I rode on the A39 to Minehead and then up Porlock hill, over to Lynmouth and then back to Taunton via Simonsbath. Quite rural in parts yes, very wet indeed, however, not really dirty roads. My God, when I got back to Bridgwater, I looked like I had been green laning, covered in dirt from the waist down, front and back, having done just under 100 miles all in. This would appear to have been entirely due to the air deflectors, which channelled everything right back to the rider and up and over the bike, which also looked like it had been in the Dakar Rally too. A solution clearly is not to ride the V4S in anything other than decent weather, but when touring and being out for the day, it is frequently highly likely that rain will affect a ride. So to add to the awful looks, be prepared to have to completely clean your kit rather more regularly than perhaps you might want to....... This modification may well sort this design failure out, but then again!
170 miles yesterday (on a full tank with 18 miles remaining!) in mainly dry conditions but dusty roads and some wet sections from water running off the fields. All with the flaps closed and they seem to work - looking at the wings the front sections have much more dust and dirt on them than the rear section behind the flaps and my boots are still pretty clean! Really need to do a proper wet run to give a better opinion but initial results are good. Many thanks @Mr_V4PP
Ordered from my dealer - Pro Twins at Godstone, they ordered them from Italy and took about 10 days to arrive.
Finally received all the parts: Here's the parts list with prices and schematic: Looking forward to getting them fitted and tried out. Could have done with them last weekend as I had a particularly cold and wet run to Taunton.
If you find out where the two small adhesive pads go let me know! Neither I nor my dealer could see where they are meant to fit, so I binned them . A ride last Sunday was a good test, wet and dirty (as usual) and they do make a difference. Not so much crap thrown up onto the back of the bike and my trousers were not clean but not totally covered in crap either.
I also couldn't work out exactly where the small adhesive pads were supposed to go so ended up not using them. I only needed two of the screws to hold the spring mechanism on each side. The other two screws weren't needed as I could reuse the four similar screws to hold each of new new air deflectors to the base moulding. I've completed the right hand side as it took a long time to clean all the removed and exposed parts. Refitting the large holder moulding wasn't that straightforward and it took a few attempts to get it seat correctly, hopefully the left hand side will be easier. I've got engine bars and auxiliary lights fitted which also have to come off which made the job a bit longer. @Veetwin - many thanks for your installation notes - very helpful. It definitely would be a good idea to put the tie wraps into the holder before installation, maybe I'll remember to do it on the left hand side
I’m sure it’ll be much quicker to test ride a Rally then swap the deflectors over while on the test ride!
No need to swap over the deflectors, the Rally version has a flap that can be set open or closed. When open the air flow is similar to the original air deflectors on the V4/V4S/V4PP. When closed the flap closes about 80% of both the top and bottom air deflector paths thereby dramatically reducing the air blast to the upper legs. To change the setting of flaps is an easy job; no tools just press the tab on the flap and move it into the desired position, on both sides. The flap locks into either the fully open or fully closed position, there is no option for any intermediate positions. For a direct comparison, I suppose you could have one flap open and the one on the other side closed
Got around to doing the mod this morning. I had a look to see whether there was anywhere that looked a likely candidate for the foam pad and found a similar sized recess: Once you fit the part, the foam appears to protect the lower wing when you are pushing the tab? I don’t think it’s necessary but it does seem to be the right location.
What is the purpose of the air deflector and why is the Rally the only Multistrada that has the mobile deflector ? My simple brain connects a hot engine with the need for as much cooling as possible but why would you not want to cool the engine in the Rally ? The ability to block the shit that gets thrown up so it doesn’t go over the rider’s legs seems sort of incidental. Help me here please. Andy
Probably answered my first question, just found “limit turbulence and reduce airflow in colder weather” in the Rally description but no mention in the descriptions of any of the other models. Anyone notice “turbulence” around your lower body ? Andy
The side deflectors direct air toward the riders upper legs and waist which help reduce the heat from the engine. They don't cool the engine. The "gills" above the side deflectors which are behind the radiators (one on each side, ith the oil cooler mounted between them) direct the heat out sideways with the air from the side deflectors below helping create a "bubble" of cool air around the rider - at least when moving. There are additional deflectors on the Rally which are located on the swinging arm which direct the engine heat away from the pillion's legs. The side deflectors work very well, in fact too well when it's cold and/or wet. If it's wet then your legs get sprayed with road grime. If the air temperature is low, say below 5°C, then your upper legs and groin can get cold. If it's cold and wet then it can get quite unpleasant. I've not had the opportunity to ride in cold / wet weather since fitting the adjustable flaps so can't comment on how much difference there is if the side deflectors flaps are closed.
There are also another pair of cool air ducts which are located between radiators and central oil cooler. These vent behind the "gills" helping to push the hot air from the radiators out and away from the rider. Maybe the side air deflectors were added during the development phase after feedback from the test riders regarding excessive heat from the engine I can only think that the adjustable flaps for the side deflectors were added to the Rally model after feedback during development. I understand that the adjustable flaps and additional defectors behind the engine will be fitted to all Multistrada models from 2024.
@steveb123 has given the full explanation. In my case I don't feel any thing like "turbulence" around my legs / lower body in hot or cold weather. I think " limit turbulence" is marketing BS for helping to keep the crap off the riders legs in wet conditions . The flaps do do that to an extent but not completely. Just back from 3 days in Wales, excellent riding weather Friday and Saturday, Sunday morning ride back was wet and yes I forgot to close the flaps! Luckily the brown stuff is only on the outside of my trousers, Bike and trousers need a good clean.
Having spent a few days riding around Wales last week I can confirm that the adjustable deflector flaps do make a difference. In heavy rain when it's colder than 12°C, then it's definitely worth shutting the flaps. Above 15°C when it's not raining it's worth having them open and above 18°C in the dry your legs start to get hot with the flaps closed. So most of the summer you'd leave them open and in the winter you'd leave them shut. Maybe with practice it might be possible to open/close the flaps while sat on the bike but it might not be worth the risk of a topple over. Definitely not a good idea to attempt opening/closing the flaps while on the move. It only takes a few seconds to stop, get off the bike and open/close the flaps and set off again but it's a pain to do this to close the flaps if it's starts tipping it down - maybe not if you're stopping anyway to put on a waterproof over jacket or change to waterproof gloves.
