Don't FFS use a stud extractor to try and get that out....................it will break and you cannot drill a stud extractor.................get it to a decent engineering firm that can remove it.....
The white stuff is probably galvanic corrosion caused by the reaction of the alloy cases and the stainless studs, sometimes called galling. Penetrating oil won't touch it as it is designed to work on a different seizing mechanism. Nice layman's explanation here In the Shop: Bustin' Bolts | Agweb.com
Duke, I had a look at galvanc corrosion a bit ago and I thought like the fire triangle you had a triangle for this. Remove one of the sides and you don't get it. What I mean is I can't see the electrolyte getting in there - I may be wrong. Will have to have a closer look at the white bits (ooh Mrs). Cheers Gaz
You may be right Gaz, but givn the bike is old, and the environment is pretty nasty I would not bet against it.
You may be right Gaz, but givn the bike is old, and the environment is pretty nasty I would not bet against it.
Gaz, Got the engine back this aft..see pics of the set up they used. They did a good job. I would of never attempt to drill a stud out myself. By the way, why shouldn't you use a tap, to clean the threads out?? Any tips for getting the new cam belts on?? its the old style pullys with the lip. I struggled getting the old belt off. Cheers, Billy
Gaz, Got the engine back this aft..see pics of the set up they used. They did a good job. I would of never attempt to drill a stud out myself. By the way, why shouldn't you use a tap, to clean the threads out?? Any tips for getting the new cam belts on?? its the old style pullys with the lip. I struggled getting the old belt off. Cheers, Billy
You've got to admire a machine tool with a large brass plaque that says "ORMATIC" proper engineering!
Pull the lip off with a pair of pliers. I've done this to every engine that had them when I've changed the belts. The later engines didn't have them, they're not needed.
Looks like you gave the job to the right people Billy. Setting the engine up to prepare for drilling must have taken a bit of time! I would be interested to know what the charges were.
If the belt adjusters are slackened right off, pull the belt outwards where it's neaxt to the adjuster and then flip the adjuster to the other side of the belt......you should then be able to get the belts off easily.....
Billy, Glad all is OK. I presume all threads are fine that's a result. Good pics nice man cave. Cheers Gaz
Back in from the garage, bloody cold this morning!! ref these crank oil gallery plugs, are there two of them? Looking in there with the horizontal cylinder off I can see two grub screws. I can get a long srewdriver on them and there tight. What are they for exactly?? Ive got a new cylinder base gasket, im not planning using any gasket sealent, there was none on the old one, any thoughts?? Some guys seem to use some. Im off out to check the valve clearences now whilst the engine is out, Billy.
Billy, No that is not it. If you do a search on it you will find some pictures. you can only see the side of it and may be the end ofthe slot if it moves. sorry i am away at the moment and on a tablet and it is not behaving itself so getting p!ssed off trying to copy and paste stuff. will add somemore info tomorrow if no one else posts. Cheers Gaz
Gaz, and all my other engineers!! Got the stud machined out at Blackpool Road and Rally, charged £70. You have to no when to hand it over to the PROs. Highly recomended. Dereck....Ref taking the lip of the cam drivve pully, with a pair of pliers?? Ive had a close look and not sure. can you advise? Does it snap off?? Cheers, Billy
Yes. The lip is just pressed onto the outer edge of the pulley, it's an interference fit. Just grab the edge of it with a big pair of pliers or pipe grips, give it a twist and it will come away. The lip will be destroyed but you won't need it anyway.
may not be your crank but most are similar. Nothing wrong with checking the smaller two screws for tightness but as said, the one larger blanking plug is prone to coming loose (particularly on larger capacity engines) and winding out until contact made (as seen in pic) worse scenario being a great loss of oil pressure. The main use for all 3 screws is for creating/access to create the oil galleries.
Hi, back again from another day in the garage, ref these goddam studs, got the cylinder case and head back on. Put the d washers and nuts on getting ready to torque them down...not enough threads showing?? So the question is how far out do the studs have to be?? I screwed them in untill they nipped up. Its a couple of mills to much so ive backed them out a bit and torqued up. Studs are now flush with the top of the nuts. Any advise?? Cheers, Billy
Stav, Look at the picture of my studs earlier on in the thread. There is a lager diameter section about 8mm long before it necks down (above the threads). If you look close there is a bit of a "tide mark" about half way up so mine where about 4mm down into casing from bottom of plain diameter section above threads. Sorry was going to post earlier but had to go out. I hope you checked crank plug. Chris posted picture of end view of plug (which you can't see) please see view down through vertical cylinder. There is a bulge/boss on the LHS of crank and you can see about 0.5/1mm of the plug sticking out and the end of the slot. Get something thin (don't drop it in) and try and turn the plug see if the end of the slot comes into view then you know its loose. The other 2 screws as Chris says are other connecting oil galleries and are blocked off with a grub screw of sorts but seem to be heavily dimpled and would say you are not going to have a problem with them. I don't have a picture of top of stud and nut/washer but thought they were a couple of threads sticking out of nut. Cheers Gaz
