Thanks Dave it's one of those 'lessons in life', listen to the advice you are given and take heed, otherwise.......:Vomit: And there was I quoting that often mis-laid virtue...."patience". As Exige has suggested above, 'a fool and his nut', etc!!! ummy:
It could have been worse - the stud could have sheared off flush with the face of the cylinder head casting. Then you would have a bigger problem.
Heat is your friend here. Judiciously applied it will make life a lot easier. A small gas soldering iron with a blow torch attachment will let you concentrate the heat on a vary specific area and will negate any chances of cooking any of the surrounding area. The copper should expand at a different rate to the steel studs and coupled with the use an Ezi-out extractor ought to free the nut for you. Good luck and above all else if the nut starts to round off then I would resort to the above before you make the work more difficult for yourself.
Oops, didn't read the previous posts clearly. Oh well, trip to the local engineering shop it is then for the OP.
:Bag: In the very process of sorting out my balls-up, but my usual local reliable repair contact in Wiltshire isn't about now for the next two weeks, so does anyone have any suggestions for an alternative who actually knows bikes AND can collect/return the bike?
For the problem you have "know bikes" should not really need to be a requirement. May keep your costs down if you broaden your search for a good garage and not just one that does bikes. Just a thought, good luck.
So, if I understand correctly, you have some of the stud still proud of the flange ? I did exactly the same when I fitted a decat pipe but had all 3 shear at various places. The "bastard" one I used a file on the create a flat surface, carefully punched an indent and then used a series of twist drills starting small and finishing with a slightly smaller drill than the root diameter of the stud to make a hole about 10mm deep. The smallest Ezi out then fitted and the stud came out. Ran a tap down the thread to make sure it was okay and fitted a new stud. The process was time consuming because I took a lot of care but it is definitely something any reasonably confident and competent DIY man can do with the right tools. Andy
The full flange depth, which I estimate must be circa 10-15 mm or so, the nut sheared off flush with the face of the exhaust connection.
Should be able to get it off easy after soaking and a bi of directed heat with a chef burner using a stud extractor?
Got the bike back now and don't feel quite so bad, coz the guys who tackled the problem for me replacing the sheared stud I also asked them to remove the other two seized exhaust nuts and replace the studs at the same time, to 'refresh' the whole set-up. They also sheared the other two studs and had to drill all three out, re-tap the threads and then fix new studs that I had supplied. And they have all of the right kit, facilities, etc..... As the saying goes 's**t happens :Banghead: :Muted: An expensive error, but all positive once again and back onto the new link pipe set-up from tomorrow.
With collection + return of the bike and circa 3 hours labour, studs provided by myself (really cheap anyway), £200 excluding Vodka & Tonic. A bit more than I thought it would involve, but the studs had to be drilled-out, threads cleaned and re-tapped, etc. Still a lot less than Ducati in Bristol would have charged me and what with the likely waiting time to fit the bike in, even with this cost I'm happy to have the bike back and ready to be fettled.
sorry to hear how much this cost - just as an epilogue how many miles covered and how old was your bike?
OK well that is not bad....if I am going to be honest, I had the airbox screws "go" on me - they are on a plastic thread and I called in for help - rad and throttle body needed removal including those pesky wide connectors for the throttle to lift airbox off..so got bike picked up etc...new box, etc... big cost also.
Oh dear. Reading this as I just had two of these header bolts shear. Copper nut had corroded to the thread and had two of the whole bolts out, third one sheared and another sheared when I was putting it back together. Is it not a good idea to use stud extractors then?
