A computer is not needed, period. The only thing is resetting the Desmo service message. You can buy a "computer" for about 500 dollar US or visit a dealer or independable to do the reset job. Resetting is not neccesary for a good running bike. I am starting to perform the Desmo job right now, all the "plastic" shit is already removed
Whilst a reset of the Desmo service indicator isn't necessary it's something that would annoy the hell out of me. My independent didn't have the diagnostic tool required for the later ECUs as fitted to the 1260. I had purchased the OBD Star one myself anyway and once I'd retuned from my trip to France had no issues doing this myself. It's now significantly cheaper than when I bought it I note... The time elapsed Oil Service indicator is also now showing though my guy did the full service at the same time as the Desmo one at my request. IIRC I can, using the OBD Star, change the date that this will next appear to the anniversary of that work, I've yet to do this as the bike is still wrapped up in the garage. You can't clear these notifications until they appear.
In recent weeks I have performed the Desmo service. This very is doable if you take your time and work accurately. I only used a degree wheel on the crankshaft, no further special tools. Of course I absorbed all information from YouTube and this forum more than a few times before I started. All shims, except 2, are changed. I kept the minimum specified clearance for all shims, where this was not possible with standard shims I grinded them back with a whetstone. This takes a lot of time 10 minutes for every 0.01mm. Before the first start, I first cranked the engine carefully a few times without spark plugs. Before the desmo service, the valves were clearly audible, after the service no longer. Very happy with the result, on to the next 30K.
Reused the old rings and put them back the same way as they where, marked the top of the rings with a black marker.
Do you actually mean you set maximum specified clearance for openers (as openers gaps decrease with time as valve seats wear) and maximum specified clearance for closers (as closers gaps increase with time as valve seats wear)?
Nope, all to the minimum. I'd rather check again in 15K than hear the sound of tickling valves because of to much clearance. Mine was realy loud and I hatet it
Well, my understanding is that when doing a Desmo service, you should aim for the bottom of the window (min tolerance) for closers and aim for the top of the window (max tolerance) for the openers. As you set them, your openers are already as tight as they should be and will only grow tighter, thus quickly getting out of spec and too tight. I suggest reading LT Snyder book on this, very clear and very informative. By all means do not think I am bragging or anything as I only learnt this recently, getting prepped to DIY my valves for the first time too. G
When I measured the shim clearance before opening all the clearances where to the max and some over. This means that Ducati factory had delivered my bike with clearances for the openers over the max? I don't think so. Ofcoarse the opener gap will get smaller in time but how much? Surely not that much. Btw, the max clearance for the openers is 0,25mm. When you use this clearance you will hear the valves from a mile distance and the "hammering" is bad for the rest of the mechanics.
Everyone has their own way of doing it, as long as they're within spec all is good. I check the clearances then put new split rings in the closers which were out, most of the time it brings the opener and closer back into spec. There's and argument that the new split rings will wear again and the old ones will have been work hardened but, I just find that trying to get the old ones back in the correct way too fiddly, they're awkward enough to deal with anyway.
