I had the exact same problem with our fridge. But I can’t remember what make it is and as per, I’m away. But I do remember just ordering up a spare bulb/LED on Amazon and popping it in. Bosh… Luckily for me it was a lot simpler than yours. Manufacturers don’t like you dicking about and fixing stuff. So they make it difficult- think dipstick on car engine - it’s all level transmitters now.
I'm not a fridge mechanic, and would baulk at AEG's £169 fixed repair price to fix a LED, but looking at the AEG spare part looks like there could be some challenges fitting the new one, once the original part is removed, depending on how the wires are connected. That said, you'd think the LED's would outlive the fridge, so it could be the switch, but presumably that's now a hidden, and similarly reliable, prox switch, somewhere in the door frame, rather than the huge mechanical plunger on your mum's Hotpoint. Is it possible to get a multimeter in there to check for power to the LED module with the current level of disassembly. There's also a fan in that housing, does that run when it should? The parts diagram shows the LED (549) sits in a tray (550) that sits in the housing (552), so perhaps you could search for better images of these parts to see if you can figure out how they are assembled. Might also be worth calling AEG and see if they can offer any advice (you never know!), or a local AEG approved repair man who may well be more forthcoming than the OEM with help. HTH.
Thank you very much for this. The fridge is only 4 years old and had a 12 month warranty extended to 24 months and you are right about the AEG charges! Not a happy bunny.
Looking at that diagram doesn't it look like 550 has locations for two LED panels? if that's the case, and they're not wired in series, it points more to the switch that the LED.
It does indeed, but the parts list is pretty vague about quantities required. The AEG website has quite a detailed parts list with photos of individual parts, and that suggests two LED modules, as you say, and if so, less likely to be an LED unit unless there was a power spike? From the orientation of the LED slots, looks like there should be the leads from one LED exit from the front that you could get at with a multimeter probe through the insulation to see if there is power. Looking at the diffuser, the two formed slots at the top front (behind the cover panel EJ has already removed) seem to locate on a protruding hook like part in the fridge housing visible in the installed photos, suggesting the decorative cover disengages/engages by moving it fore/aft, rather than up/down, but I'd also try a feeler gauge between the fridge body and the two cylindrical fittings (which also look like a retaining feature preventing for/aft movement) on the diffuser, before giving the item a pull to see if it moves forward. Also looks like the LED holder has two formed clips, one on either side, adjacent to each LED slot, so perhaps you could get something in to release these clips and remove the LED carrier from the diffuser which may help, all depends on how long the LED wires are...
I was unsure why my electricity bills were so high. So I drilled a hole in my fridge door to check the light was going off after I closed it. It wasn’t that. Hmmm
It has two led panels. They work intermittently. Sometimes both. Sometimes one. Sometimes both then flicker off. I can’t see where the switch is yet.
Fridge update. For some light relief I have replaced the full exhaust system in my Triumph this morning. It took me 1.5 hours. Not had that bike apart before. The fridge is taking longer!! I have tried to get a feeler gauge up behind the conveyor and it goes all round apart from the two cylindrical barrels. I think it must be screwed to the roof. No obvious rout in from underneath either. Investigating more there doesn’t appear to be a traditional switch for the light. It must be run from the control board. I’ve tried to get into that and failed there too. So. I took an executive decision and ordered two lithium powered led strip lights with motion sensors for £15 or so off eBay. I give up. My eggs are still brown though. So all is well.
Two concealed access holes up to a pair of torx drive screws. T20. Only thing now is I’m not sure it’s the leds themselves. I think it’s the control panel. I’m shit at electrics but have a multimeter. How do I test the leds please? Idiot proof instructions would be appreciated.
Simpler to equip each family member with one of these. Not sure if head shaving is a requirement to allow intelligent induction from the brain, but would be a good starting point. £353.97 each from AEG. Dealer set up required. May be cheaper options available.
Both LED's clearly working OK there! I think the chances of an intermittent failure of both LED's in a similar timeframe is remote, so would switch the fridge off, disconnect it from the mains, and then remove the light assembly at the white connector block. Visually check the harness for condition and give both sides of the connector block a clean with contact cleaner, and reconnect the connector but leave dangling. Switch on the power and see if it works. You could pop a mobile phone in the fridge on video record so you can see what happens when the door closes (saves drilling a hole in the door, or even getting inside the fridge!). If it works, the reassemble and see how it goes.
Yeah. Both work then one stops or both stop. I’m going to try and inspect and clean first as you say.
