STM do make a standard preasure plate that gives the look of a slipper, take it of and have a look it's only a five minute job. Steve
If I go that far should vi just not take the plates out and clean them as well? What should I clean them with or should I just wipe them with a clean rag? How tight do the bolts go back on as I have seen to not over tighten?
With regard to the Allen bolts only do them up hand tight and stop when the head bottoms on the post, otherwise you can snap the post off the clutch basket if you get to enthusiastic in tightening up those screws.
The springs are being compressed by the screws so the threads are always under load, which with the friction is enough to stop the screw from backing out. As I said keep going until the screw stops and then 1/8th of a turn extra if that. If I remember correctly they should only be done up to 5Nm in any case
too late o'clock to review all the posts and photos in detail... If it is a slipper, then even more reason to take the plates out and give them a clean. I stand by my recommendation to pop them out one by one and put them onto the foot peg to insure order and orientation are maintained when replacing... Not sure what has caused the claim of smoke and mirrors and misinformation by @andyb . It a simple strip, clean and reassemble to combat a grabby action; not a complete clutch over-haul where the problems are not evident. I would recommend using a torque wrench for the pressure-plate bolts. I tend to torque every thing, and with the recommended setting being about 5nm, then it is very easy to over tighten. I've known as little as 5nm above the recommended setting to break a bolt thin bolt...
Hi Guys Does "orientation" purely refer to facing in or out? They don't need to face the same way up? Also, am I right the friction plates can be swapped around with each other and the orientation can be changed? What do you think of these? Wiggle | LifeLine Essential Mini Torque Wrench | Workshop Tools Bontrager 5Nm Torque Wrench | Evans Cycles Cheers
Clutch plates are the same both sides. There is no orientation, turning it round won't make any difference. On the OEM clutch 2 plain plates go in first and there is often a convex plate. I usually juggle the position of the friction plates to distribute the wear. Here's picture of the clutch plate order for the OEM clutch -
Those mini torque wrenches look as if they could be handy for clutch assembly, assuming that they can fit the heads on the bolts (there's feedback on the Bontrager unit warning that it has a fixed hex drive - not clear to me what size it is). Personally, if I were in the market for a torque wrench for low settings I'd like an adjustable one that could go a bit higher than 5 Nm with the flexibility of 1/2 or 3/8" square drive. I don't know what's out there though, so if anyone has recommendations it would be helpful. I certainly don't feel happy using a big torque wrench down at the low end of its range.
As Derek has said the orientation of the plates is irrelevant except for the dished plate which faces outwards. This is supposed prevent the clutch grabbing suddenly. Neither my SS or SPS appear to have this dished plate which doesn't seem to affect the performance, i just slip the clutch more. As for the torque wrenches, I can find better things to do with 13 quid, but if you feel the need, go for it.
It will have a 1/4" hex that is a universal size for all of the interchangeable bits that are available.
You need to establish whether its a slipper or not first as the plates fit in a different order to the standard clutch. Steve
To blinking cold for my garage today, Wednesday is looking likely. Its meant to be getting warmer 1st and 2nd so might get to go for a shake down.
