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Dry Clutch Service

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Cream_Revenge, Dec 21, 2014.

  1. forgive me if teaching to suck eggs here but a little tip if working on something unusual get a bit of card board an draw the casing on it and fit yer bolts in order on the cardboard. i promise you there aint a single thing you cant do on your own bike, it;s knowing how to deal with it when or if it starts to go wrong, and that's just experience.
     
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  2. Done that myself. It works :upyeah:
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. Cheers Finm, I'm 99% sure I didn't but as it is a 12 years old bike someone else may have.

    Or I might just have fucked it.
     
  4. thats one thing you learn in a workshop,your checking during removal for other peoples cock ups.
     
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  5. Nelly, where do you reside?
     
  6. Cornerspeed.Co.UK
    Steve
     
  7. Don't often get up that way but I owe that man a beer.
     
    • Disagree Disagree x 1
  8. Turns out it was a 65mm in the hole I stripped. The bolt above was a 70mm so put the longer one in and good and tight, phew.

    So now I'm buying a torque wrench for just accurate low settings and going through the Haynes trying to figure which ones should be 70mm.

    Any harm in putting 70mm in all 4?

    Nelly, your awesome.
     
  9. Looks like that one should have been a 70mm.
     
  10. Scrub that, should have been 65.
     
  11. Who dresses you in the mornings?
    :D
     
  12. So all cleaned and back together...

    Guessing you bled the clutch...

    Is it ok now, grabby feel gone?
     
  13. Don't know, not been for a ride yet.
     
  14. So did you do all this too?

    I dont want to be difficult but this is the heart of the matter and critical to the operation of the slipper. If you "just put it back as it came out" how do you know where it was at let alone rectifying the obvious issues and setting it up correctly...
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  15. As I said, stack height was not measured as it was grabbing, not sticking. Plates back in the same order. Didn't count spring plates, left as it was.
     
  16. ok
    with respect then you might of as well not of bothered.
     
  17. I disagree.
    I've learnt I have a slipper clutch with a ball and ramp design and how it works.
    That I need a big socket and clutch holder to get in and grease it up.
    That the plates orientation is important, without the advice here I would probably just put them in a pile and put them back in friction, steel, friction, steel.
    That torque settings are REALLY important (and hopefully got away with it thanks to Nelly).
    It's also all good and clean and the rust etc off the springs which can only be good.

    You need to remember I'm coming into this from a base of zero.

    If I could find a local evening class doing bike mechanics I'd go but there isn't one.

    Think of me as the fatty starting to get fit after years as a couch potato and living on pizza as a new years resolution. I wouldn't try to do a marathon on day one.

    I'be been in company cars for over 15 years now so not even had to change a tyre in that time.

    Peace.
     
  18. Ah......a manager...........:upyeah:

    a bit like mine then, it appears all glitzy from the outside but underneath there hasn't been enough attention given to the importance of getting the inside and working parts set up correctly...:cool:
     
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  19. One final question and hopefully we can put this saga to bed.

    What do the half moon cut outs on some of the steels indicate?
     
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