so i got the tail unit and its in mint condition not a scratch on it not even a weave defect there's 2 or 3 pin holes in the lacquer but its on parts that are being painted so its not a problem. Also managed to get a picture of the mine and my friends collection well most of it still missing a 98 750 srad and an 88 gsxr 400
finally got the tail unit and fitted it just to see if everything lined up right. what a pain in the arse that was. But would i be right in saying that they released a 1098 with just a carbon front end and tail then the rest of the bike red? Safety first
is seem to sit back by a few mm so might need to pad it out to push the light further forward. But the angle the photo was taken makes it look worse
So the focus of my time and energy has changed slightly and im now working on getting a workshop built to then be able to carry out the work that i really want to do on the bike and eventually work for myself. I'm having a 14x26 foot wooden building built and I've also got a nice budget for tools and equipment. This is what i have so far as a plan for the workshop but if anyone could suggest changes that could be made to make it a better work space please let me know. i would like to get it right the first time.
no ha ha its interesting how long some one can be kept occupied trying to stand on a bit of wood balanced on a scaffolding pole
I'd make the door central too if possible, especially if you're putting cabinets down the side. Don't see the value of a sofa and TV in the garage...of all the things I wish I had in the garage they're not 2 of them! I wouldn't divide the area with a work bench/desk either as it just removes flexibility in your work area. Is there no way you can have some windows as natural light is much better than artificial? What roof are you having (flat or pitch) as you could possibly use sky lights and the roof will affect storage possibilities. Think about where you want to put your electricity points, lighting etc. in advance too (and compressor/air lines if going that route). Think about how much storage space and work space you actually need. I deliberately restricted myself to a 6ft bench so that I have to finish one job before starting another..... I also have little storage at ground level so most parts not being messed with at that time go up in the garage loft out of the way (where they won't get broken).
I'll second that, you'll struggle to get bikes around if you have to squeeze them in through a small side door, especially Ducatis with limited steering lock. I'd go for at least a 2m wide door if possible, mine has an 8' roller shutter meaning I can get a bike in anywhere without doing the 15 point manoeuvre...
My brothers garage has a grey floor, mine is "brick red". It's easier to find dropped washers etc. on my floor. I also left my concrete floor as tampered, whereas some friends had screed floor. Spills don't travel as far on a rougher floor. If fitting some sort of flooring think about fluids beforehand. A friend has some PVC/Plastic tiles that are fluid proof but they're so tight fitting you need a mallet to put them together. Not sure about welding/grinding/axle stands etc. with plastic flooring though. Most of us are into cars as well so axle stands are more of an issue than with a bike. Don't assume you won't be welding/grinding, as most of us have used both to remove broken/seized bolts/studs at some point. Also, whilst doing the flooring think about what ground anchors you want and where, then you can get them concreted in when the floor is laid. I fitted three dotted around the garage and will still probably need to bolt in another as things aren't parked where I thought they would be. If painting the floor just use a normal garage floor paint as they're easy to "touch up" when marked with axle stands/side stands etc. (and why do tyres always peel off paint, what chemicals are in there?). I used an epoxy paint and even after consultation with the manufacturer to make sure it was applied correctly it still got lifted by tyres. The extra cost was a waste of money and it's a horrid job, like painting your floor with glue! It might have worked better with some sort of sealer and an undercoat, but the retailer and manufacturer both said it wasn't needed and adding in that would have cost a fortune. Please note, I am not a builder, garage fitter etc. and the above is just from the experience of myself and friends, as we're more precious about our garage than our houses (mind you the contents are often worth more.....).
We used to epoxy floor paint our workshop floors every summer despite manufacturers claims. If I were to equip a workshop I'd think about putting a lot of stuff on castors so should you want to change the layout you can, and after an involved project it's great to be able to move everything out of the way for the almighty mother of all clean ups. Again, were I having machinery in there like pillar drills and the like, if they're floor standing then designate an area say a corner as your machine / dirty area. This way you can put a screen or clear divider there and it helps contain dwarf and general mess that goes with the territory. Oh and a sink with hot and cold running water, worth it's weight in gold. If you're having air then it might be worth looking at hanging electrical reels and airlines, perhaps one in each half of the garage. Roller shutter door as has been said as well. They really are good. Then it's just your choice in tools and cabinets- totally up to you and will very much be dictated by your preferred discipline, after all a fabricator or machinist will kit his space out far differently to a bolter. Oh and a bike lift to save your knees
Well done for getting carbon duct covers for £40, looking for some myself, can you point me in the direction of reasonably priced ones please?
Any applied floor paint will only stay down if.... 1. You grind the surface laitence off the floor after you have removed ALL of the old paint. 2. There is a huge variation in the quality of epoxies. Don't use a water based as up to 40% is water which evaporates off as it cures. Use a high solids like Sika 264 and leave it to cure out for the full 7days while it takes up to full chemical resistance . 3. If you're looking for something that will stay down forever, look at a resin screed or tinted cementitious, great abrasion and chemical resistance and you shouldn't need to do it again...deep pockets though...
