Don’t forget to order a new o-ring for the fuel assembly. The old one will have expanded and won’t go back easily.
If you lift the tank slightly and hit the starter are you seeing fuel being injected into the throttle bodies? Have you a spark?
Unlikely an old filter would cause a complete stop of fuel? spluttering/rough running etc. especially at big throttle openings, even fuel pump fuse holder/wiring (20A underseat) melting (mine did) but to stop dead needs a complete blockage or split pipe. Assuming you have a spark, then no fuel being injected is either no fuel being pumped into the injection 'loop' to the injectors or the injectors are not working. My first test would be to see if you have any fuel pressure in the loop from fuel out to fuel return (from 'M' to 'R' quick disconnects) before removing all the pump assembly from the tank. I had a situation where the internal 'O' ring in the connector had swollen and blocked off the fuel flow, bike stopped dead as no fuel was being delivered - which is why I previously asked about the fuel disconnect fittings.
each to their own, but controversial as have re-used probably 9 out of 10 on average. Just the heat from your hands will make them expand, you only have to stick them in the fridge to get them to behave, main thing is to look carefully for nicks and any other degradation.
Have also re-used the 'O' ring, just let it dry out and it shrinks back to original size. Though a couple of years back I bought a lifetime's supply from Polymax at £1 a pop. A few months back they were still around £1, looking at them now they're around a fiver each which is some inflation but still much cheaper than from Ducati. https://www.polymax.co.uk/o-ring-117-07mm-id-x-3-53mm-cs-fkm-viton-75-sha
I dip them in Motul 300V to get them back to their original state… More seriously, I keep my old ones too as they seem to shrink back with time. But for my peace of mind, I like to put a new one every now and then. Just like tires, you know…
No, the other is the second ECU relay. Nothing to do with the fan. If you have a multimeter you need to check that the +12V reaching your fuel pump is also reaching the injectors. Is the circular connector on the throttle bodies locked? Also check for a low resistance across the pick-up sensor. If you have +12V on the injectors then my money is on a failed pick-up, or the pick-up loom.
These might be of interest. Some videos I made a couple of years ago while diagnosing an ignition fault (I had a misfire issue which seemed to get worse when the engine was hot). As stated in the description, I used Audacity to generate a set of precise timing waveforms and then played them into the crank sensor pickup directly, with the plugs out and tank off, obviously. This proved the ECU was working, sparks were good, injectors were all rattling away, and the tacho gauge was pretty accurate up to 13k. I used GuzziDiag to also display the 'rpm' that the ECU thought it was seeing. The fault turned out to be the crank sensor. It was old and the magnet felt weak. My bike hasn't missed a beat since I replaced the sensor. https://youtube.com/shorts/WtLZCtA6bcc?feature=share https://youtube.com/shorts/tkeRA4KJnsE?feature=share
If you want to check the injectors are working, you can spin the tank around and reconnect everything. The top of the trumpets are easily seen.
Interesting - so should this relay be active when the ignition is switched on? I’ve ordered a new fuel filter and plan on changing this is the weekend, hopefully it’s just a loose or perished hose. Start with the easy stuff first!
I haven't looked at my 916 tank in a while but I have just done my MV pump new pipes and filter. While searching to see the best price I could get the Gates fuel pipe for I found some info on the MV forum. They reckon the risk for splitt/nicking the o ring can be reduced by filling some holes in the baseplate with epoxy. Now these holes are adjacent to the three mounting bolts for the base plate. I did mine and smoothed them out with a little flap wheel in a dremel The MV pump is the same but I don't know if the tank side is the same. Photo of MV tank attatched
I’m thinking I may have solved the issue…….pretty sure this hose shouldn’t be wafting about unattached! Someone has been in before me going by the amount of red rubber grease on the rubber washer. The hoses all look to be in very good condition also and have probably been replaced. Looks like the clamp has not been tightened properly. The date stamp on the filter is 2006, I’ve ordered one already so I might as well fit the new one. Fingers crossed Thanks for everyone’s input, forums like this makes fixing stuff possible for people like me.
Too bloody true. I had a horrible feeling it was going the be ECU/electrical related - not my bag at all!
Watch the orientation on that hose clamp when fitting it. When I did mine, the flanged part scratched the side of the tank where the O-ring seals, necessitating some ‘smoothing off’ before the darn thing would seal correctly
There are special pliers for those, well worth having. I needed to buy a pair for the clips that go around cv boots on the car. Once you have them though you wanna go around replacing every hose clamp
