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Exhaust Stud Snapped, Drilled But Now Drill Snapped In Hole...

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Mattontwowheels, Jan 1, 2022.

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  1. Opposite Moto Rapido I believe.
     
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  2. Yes that's the place
     
  3. Proper old fashioned engine shop, bit's of engine everywhere and a 3" fillet of muck and grime at the bottom of every vertical surface.
     
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  4. never looked that low, always too busy watching the machines working, try watching a crank or cam being ground is mind blowing
     
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  5. is this "never - seez" as good as copper slip ??
    it looks dear on flee bay
     
  6. Never seez gas graphite and copper particles in it I believe.
    Good for high temperature and high pressure applications.
     
  7. UPDATE, Good news... after a few hours and a lot of slow progress with a Cobalt drill I finally managed to get the snapped drill out. All re tapped and cleaned up ready for a replacement stud. ( I made up a 10mm plate to fix to the 2 lower studs and a 5.6mm hole for the Colbalt drill to sit in lined up with the top stud, took about 2 hours to drill very slowly through..) Thanks for all your suggestions. Now to get the pipes ceramic coated.
     
    #28 Mattontwowheels, Jan 7, 2022
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2022
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  8. Excellent! Well done. Setting up a fixed guide saves a whole shed load of problems.
     
  9. Well done for persevering, the best bit, the luckiest bit, is that the drill that you jammed in there must’ve been a Tesco special made of cheese. :upyeah:
     
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  10. The drill bit was made by Erbauer... a 5.5 HSS bit. (cheap shite) I thought this would be fine for ally head but it caught a bit of the stud right at the back of the hole. Have drilled plenty of mild steel with these bits in the past so was a little annoyed when it went pop.
     
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  11. It would also be useful to know more about the Cobalt drill bit - well worth whatever it cost!
     
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  12. Good products don't normally come cheap compared to similar products in any particular field.
    I use Never-Seez in the course of my day job when working on aircraft jet engines & I always use this procuct when assembling items on my bikes' exhausts. I consider "copper-slip" to be an inferior product & not suitable for steel in aluminium instances, others swear by it !! Horses for courses, either is better than nothing !

    Well done that man for your perseverance. Good result !;):upyeah:
     
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  13. A cobalt alloy drill 6/8 mm will cost £10 each. I take no notice of names anymore, if it’s cheap it’s a one off for drilling cake icing. DIY drill packs with famous names all seem to come out of the same factory.
    Cobalt steels by Dormer are worth the money. Not sold the name out yet on high end drills. Every machine shop back in the day used Dormer. On highly alloyed steels do not allow the bit to dwell, nickel chrome alloys ( most stainless grades) will work harden and burn out HSS.Need a cheap coolant 5 teaspoons of water to one of EP80/90 gear oil, small container shake. Cools and lubricates for one offs.
    A good drill with a true chuck and properly seated drill bit helps. Never rush.
     
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  14. Lovely to see some true bloody mindedness wins through!
     
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