Just checked, thought the 'lounge' might be closed but it's not.............so maybe the drivel can continue there please? ;-) Back on topic......input from another Ducati tech: There you go @damodici
very thin smear on nuts & bolts helps during maintenance, well - that's my opinion and doing it for decades, last few years using the pictured on various metals... no dramas on my side....
i wouldnt go as far as calling it drivel. some people are genuinely interested in whether or or not a shaft should be greased.
In a proper panic on Friday when I needed to take the wheel off due to a puncture after reading this, seriously don't know what all the fuss is about now. 1 little spanner and 2 seconds later, off it comes
The issue is not the tools it's ducati, they put these nuts on at 180psi at the factory dry, no copper grease, which means after a year or 2 they ate impossible to get off. I have even heard rumours of them having to be cut off!! I have just changed my rear sprocket and not even a £500 pro gun got it off, in the end it came down to brut force and a scaffold pole. If you have a new one, take it off now and grease it, if you have an old one get some force around you. Be careful even ducati dealers put the wheels back on without grease and at ridiculous psi, which us a surprise as they have a lock on the nut!?!??! Enjoy
This thread completely baffles me!! I've just had a new set of tyres put on my 2012 S Touring, my 2nd Multistrada, and the third time I've had to remove the rear wheel from one. Missus sits on bike, applies front & rear brakes, bike is also in first gear. I put my Oberon wheel nut socket, attached to an 18" breaker bar, onto the wheel nut, apply steadily increasing force to the bar, wheel nut comes undone. OK, I'm 20 stone, and, admittedly the wheel nut is reasonably tight, but not, IMO, excessively so. I would have thought that anyone over 12 stone, with maybe a 2' extension on a breaker bar like mine, could remove the nut without too much trouble. I'm tending to think that the problem is more to do with poor technique than overtight wheel nuts. I'm an engineer so have been used to undoing bloody tight nuts all my working life. Perhaps those struggling most would be well advised to let someone with more experience (and more lard) have a crack. Bouncing on the end of a scaffold pole, losing your rag with it is never going to do anything but damage the nut. Steady, progressive force is the only answer. And as for the thought of using an impact wrench, well that sends shivers down my spine. I can't begin to imagine the damage one of those animal tools would potentially do to the wheel nut. Anyone in the Plymouth-ish area (S.W. Cornwall really) who wants their wheelnut loosened is welcome to p.m. me. I'll be more than happy to help.
OK.. Oct 2013 PP, at least 2 rear tyre changes (by others). We are unable to remove the rear wheel nut. Oberon socket is holding it's own.... 3x times 1000mm 1/2 breaker bars broken...socket looking worn, battered, but still usable. 2x new breaker bars (1000mm long Sealey), bending 300mm deflection along length! Heating whole area to +400°C, then rapidly cooled inner stub axle to -52°C....NO; not having it. Rattle gun and hitting with hammer is putting a nice shine on the nut, but only on one face of each side!! Next.... 12 point Facom socket on order and 1000mm 3/4 drive breaker bar. I'm £185 poorer and getting very annoyed, as it 's sunny tomorrow and I want my new PR4 fitted (the existing old one has puncture, repaired by me, but I don't trust it)!
well i did once carefully remove one with a lil angle grinder with a very thin blade but you do need a steady hand
