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I don't intend on changing the ride height. These links are a standard length so no change in geometry. I have no experience with the Forsaken kit, This is a MotoCorse kit. I did have a thought of simply swapping the bolt around the other way which is easy enough to do, should clearance prove to be an issue, as the bolt head is much shallower than the nut. We will see once I mock up the rest of the system, how much wiggle room I have and if I need to address it.

 

Thanks for the info Andy. Tie bars are are the same length and as far as I can tell the rocker link is also the same in terms of hole spacing. Hard to visualize if the rocker link as it prescribes an arc when moving at its lowest point, if it will contact the exhaust. The only way to be sure would be to support the engine and gradually lower the swing arm, I woud have to find a way to support the engine without using the stand (which won't work with the exhaust in situ), so possibly a steel bar through the swingarm pivot points on jack stands. If it does foul then I am either going to have to consider something similar to the Forsaken tie bar design with the integrated threads or use the stock tie bars and bolts which I would obviously prefer to avoid as although that might solve any potential issues, would look shi*e.

 

Crisis averted! Switched the link bolt around and now there is plenty of clearance. A noteworthy point, if anyone else intends on fitting the MotoCorse linkage kit with this exhaust system. I also double checked the clearance by supporting the bike whilst allowing the swing arm to drop to its lowest position and it's all good. Phew. Thanks again AndyB for the heads up.



Time to crack on by turning my attention to the cooling system and assemble the new Evotech Performance "EP" edition guards. Essentially the same as standard but with a large logo on the radiator guard and a revised logo and spacer fittings on the oil cooler guard.



With the spacer rubbers fitted. Two additional (hidden) spacers clip into the back of the logo plate on the oil cooler





Here is the radiator and oil cooler after Cerakotiing (Glacier Satin Black).



Silicon bungs, prevent any residual oil from leaking out until I am ready to connect the lines.



The radiator guard contrasts well against the black Cerakote finish





Rubber dampers and steel bushings need to be refitted, then I can assemble both the radiator and the cooler back onto the shroud, as well as the cooling fan assembly.

Here's the net result. Still a few mods to make to some of the coolant lines (remaining part of the Samco kit) but it is largely ready to go back on the bike.



M5 stainless steel flanged nuts (Stig Fasteners) torqued to 5Nm





This tie wrap holds the clutch line to the top of the radiator bracket and is a complete PIA to secure if you don't pre-feed the tie wrap in first.

 

New sprint filter arrived today, courtesy of Steve Smith. Thanks again.

 

Really long day today at work. Not much chance to work on the bike and two O2 sensor adaptors short, so have ordered a pair to continue with the build in earnest. Most of the hydraulic lines and ABS unit to fit before the radiator/oil cooler assembly can go back on, then I have to figure out the best case scenario to route the LHS wiring branch, avoiding the front headers now that the EVAP canister has gone. Once they are back on, I can begin to make real strides.

 

Front brake line guide installed on main frame using RaceTi flanged torx head bolt, M5 x 10mm torqued to 5Nm.



Oil cooler line retention bolts. Pro Bolt M6 x 20mm, torqued to 10Nm





Radiator assembly can now go on and I can start sorting out some of the main wiring branches.

 

Cluch line fitted and Stahlbus bleeder/banjo bolt.



Front sprocket torqued to 55Nm, then fitted the Ilmberger carbon sprocket cover, remaining two Pro Bolts torqued to 10Nm.



P08 Sprint filter fitted and front air duct secured using RaceTi M5 x 15mm flanged torx bolts, torqued to 6Nm.



One of the advantages of using the Akrapovic exhaust system is that all the additional hardware that takes account of the exhaust valve removal and EVAP canister are included in the kit. At least with the full system. However having decided to go down the Termignoni route, I have had to source all these parts myself, so if you are planning on doing something similar, you will typically need some or most of these parts. I've already touched on the new ABS bracket, but I will highlight other components that you may need and their part numbers.

Here is one such example. This plug is for the now defunct purge circuit return line.





Line now secured out the way, zip tied to the radiator fan bracket.



Purge valve delete connector

 

Here is the splitter and shorter drain tubes, that convert the dual line setup from the fuel tank into a single line, where previously there were two separate lines. One for the EVAP canister and one for the fuel drain.



These Pclips are used to secure the LHS lower wiring to the engine. More importantly to keep it clear of the exhaust front headers.



Next from MotoCorse, this new billet alloy gear change arm.

 

Arm fitted. Used some marker pen to position the angle of the arm correctly on the splined shaft, before I removed the OEM one. Pro Bolt M6 x 20mm stainless bolt, torqued to 10Nm.

 

More MotoCorse parts. This time it's the LHS support plate. This comes in two pieces as it features an optional side stand delete section for track days (if that's what you need).









Since the stock exhaust is history, you have to fit two washers behind the front two mounting bolts of the plate, to space it out correctly. These are normally supplied in the Akrapovic kit. They replace the stock OEM exhaust hangar plate of the same thickness.



Three mounting bolts. Pro Bolt 2 x M8 x 35mm and 1 x M8 x 20mm. Torqued to 25Nm and 20Nm respectively.



Here's the plate fitted to the bike.

 

With the plate fitted I could turn my attention to the LHS lower wiring loom, which includes the sidestand switch, gear position sensor, quickshifter and cylinder 1 lambda sensor. The first two need to be wrapped in a heat reflective blanket before the rest can be tidied up, as per the factory specs. The main aim is to minimize direct exposure to heat by standing them off from the engine, as best as is possible. First job was to fit the sidesstand switch, using Pro Bolt M4 x 10mm titanium screws, torqued to 2Nm and a dab of Loctite 243.





Purchased a new set of Hellerman ties to secure the wiring in place as per the workshop manual.



Wiring all buttoned up.



P-clip held in place with Pro Bolt M6 x 15mm bolt torqued to 10Nm. This ensures the wiring is kept well away from the front headers.



Next job was to fit the new single fuel tank drain line and connect it, as well as the airbox drain line and water pump drain line to the outlet which is located at the bottom of the oil cooler. This much improved design was introduced on the 2022 models. Earlier versions had the drain lines attach to the fairing lowers.



Next job was to fit the support plate plugs from Moto Corse.









Finally I replaced the expansion tank bolts on both sides, with ones from Pro Bolt. M5 x 20mm, torqued to 2.5Nm.



So here is where I am at so far. Only the quick shifter load cell to attach and the QS, plus the LHS rearset and the gear position sensor cooling duct, then this side is almost complete. You'll obviously notice that the cooling system is also now installed as well as 99% of the SAMCO pipework.







Clutch line fastened to engine casing. Much better design than on older models.



The next stage is over on the RHS of the bike, where I need to install the ABS unit, hydraulic lines and connect up the three remaining Lambda sensors, front and rear wheel speed sensors, brake light switch. RPM pick up sensor and oil pressure sensor, as well as blank off the exhaust valve motor connection.

 

These arrived today. I ordered a set of stainless steel O2 reducers for the rear headers as only two were supplied with the Termignoni exhaust system. These reduce the M18 bung down to M12 so as you can screw in the lambda probes.

 

So started to make s some real strides today. First off was sorting out the RHS lower wiring branch and connectors. This is a bit of a viper's nest of wiring so I took my time to make sure everything was routed as it should be allowing for correct positioning of each connector/sensor and cable management to make the end result as neat as possible.

First things first was to route the no.2 Lambda sensor wiring as this sits behind the ABS support bracket and the front wheel sensor which has to be fed in behind the front frame.

ABS support bracket is held in place with two bolts. I replaced the gash OEM ones with these RaceTi torx flanged titanium bolts, torqued to Nm and a dab of Loctite 243.



Here are another two parts, normally found in the full Akrapovic kit, which I had to source. These being the exhaust valve servo blanking plug and the rubber strip that prevents the lower fairing rubbing on the ABS support bracket (this has to be bonded onto the bracket, which I will do tomorrow).



Some TESLA fabric tape on the exhaust servo valve blanking plug/connector, to neaten things up.



Here's the finished result. I amongst this cluster are the RPM pick up sensor, oil pressure switch, front and rear wheel speed sensors, fan power supply connector, no.2 cylinder Lambda sensor, ABS unit main connector and servo valve blank. I also fitted colour coded spiral binding to each hydraulic line instead, as I am not a fan of the sticky tape Ducati method Ducati uses.



Next job was to sort out the wiring to the swingarm, namely the rear wheel speed sensor and the rear caliper hydraulic line.

This cover has been redesigned on later models and now features an extra heat reflective sheath over the speed sensor cable and hydraulic line, which the workshop manual goes into very specific detail about, showing where and how to fit it with precise positioning on the speed sensor cable, that must align with existing marks. OEM bolts torqued to 5Nm and a dab of Loctite 243.



The speed sensor cable/rear hydraulic line, MUST be routed under the chain slider lip before finally torqueing down the remaining rear most upper dome head bolt (5Nm and Loctite 243).

 

With that job done I had to fit the rear carbon shark fin chain guard. This is held in place by the hydraulic line p-clip on the swing arm and on the underside by the rear most chain slider bolt and an additional bolt. All three torqued to 5Nm and Loctite 243. The guard was transferred across from the previous bike but I had it clear coated again as the lacquer had been chipped at some point.

Underside fixing



Additionally secured by the P-clip on the swing arm.





With this out the way it was time to plumb the rear caliper in. This time using a Racebolt stainless steel banjo bolt (torqued to 24.5Nm, was 23Nm on older variants) and fitted the Stahlbus speed bleeder valve and cap (not shown in this pic).





Rear wheel speed sensor fitted (including shims) using Pro Bolt M6 x 15mm flanged hex bolt, torqued to 8Nm.



With the wiring/lines to the swingarm fitted, I could then continue assembly of the exhaust, as fitting it would have made the previous work very awkward.

Cylinders 3 & 4 Lambda probes fitted, using bung adaptors previously mentioned.





I then spent the next hour or so trying to get this section to fit to the rear headers before discovering that this system requires some degreee of "persuasion" and is by no means easy to install, due in part to it's somewhat liberal tolerances but it all went on as intended eventually. I will upload some more images shortly.

As for the RHS lower wiring all that is left to do now, is install the "fairlead cover" that tidies up the hydraulic lines, rear speed sensor cable, rear lambda sensors and the rear brake light switch but this is a fiddly job and I want be able to improve on the way Ducati lash it together at the factory, so that is my next task.

 

I might well do in future with some carbon braided ones and dry break connectors but that's something I will leave for now as I've other priorities at the moment. I've got a mountain of other work to do and replacing the hydraulic lines is a project in itself

 

A couple of minor set backs. Clearances with the Termignoni exhaust are TIGHT. So much so that I have had to dispense with the rear reservoir delete as the MotoCorse integral billet one I fitted to the last bike, sits way too close to the rear collector pipes, so for the moment I will have to resort to the stock setup. Thankfully the rearsets clear OK. A little annoying as I didn't factor this in when ordering the new Moto Corse 2022-2024 fairlead cover, so I will hang on to it for now and the billet reservoir, in case things change in the future. I still have the Moto Corse billet 2018-2021 fairlead cover for sale, elsewhere on the forum.

Will be fitting the RHS rearset and finishing off the RHS lower wiring tonight. Front mudguard, speed sensor, Stahlbus bleeder banjo bolts and dust caps, front calipers and the caliper lines are all now fitted. Calipers not torqued down or bled at present, as I have yet to fit the front wheel.

After that I will move on to the LHS rear set and QS, then the rear subframe and wiring.