All of you advice in this thread is bang on the money. I'm going to have to go back to bed and start again....can't have me agreeing with you.:Angelic:
Not when its a reversible torque wrench you push the square though the hole and set the torque to undo exactly the same as you do when tightening like I said the right tool for the right job.
A high percentage of torque wrenches have the direction of pull marked on them, and can be adjusted. You can set which side the socket is mounted on to pull the wrench against its mechanism in the correct direction, by moving the square drive. Setting a higher rated torque wrench to say 300nm and correct pull direction, then slackening the nut, will cause no damage to the wrench whatsoever. If overloaded, it will merely "click" as it would do in the tightening direction. Leaving it under adjusted and just hanging off it with all the weight you can find, will obviously not be good for the tool. In heavy marine environments we are sometimes required to note slackening torques required on stuff which has been assembled for a period of time and that is now being pulled down for inspection etc. (Particularly items which have been assembled with a set torque plus X degrees at final tightening). True that this is becoming less and less frequent, due to the preferred use of hydraulically jacked/torqued items becoming much more commonplace on smaller and smaller thread diameters. (a few mins tooooooo late )
lol. It was originally brought to undo the crank pulley bolt on Audi quattros. They are torqed to 450Nm!
:Wideyed: Anyone remember that terrible axial "wobble" the Earth experienced recently? Now we know why - someone was using a Norbar Professional. ummy:
You cannot select the torque with any sort of accuracy. Further though years of bitter experience technicians that use these tools do far more damage to machinery and take just as long as those that do not. I just like the feel of a ratchet or spanner...you get a feel when something isn't right. I can see no good reason why you couldn't use one to remove the nut.
Perhaps....left hand thread? All mine are NOT designed to be used to undo bolts as @990Glen said, if you use them to the click then they would be ok. I'm not sure about this as the calibration is only in one direction. It is unlikely to be the exact same in both directions, with the exception of the push through drive square type. Not familiar with the heavy marine environment, so may be there is an application there.
lol, any one seen those norbar torque ratchets used on F1 car wheels? NO YOU HAVEN'T. Common sense says use an impact wrench on steel or titanium nuts. Wack it on, wack it off. I do have a a couple of the alloy axle nuts sat in a tool box, and thats where they stay.
you can use these to torque with impact guns. dont tho. had a spate of wheels coming loose in a garage i worked in after using them
I just used a rattle gun to remove, 2 seconds later its off. Only problem I have is my Torque wrench only goes up to 200NM. So I did it till it clicks then give it another nip up with a long breaker bar, Pin back in and jobs a good un
That's right, I use the 'whack it on till it goes loose then back it off 1/2 a turn, Threadlock also helps.
Bit different on a an F1 car as the Impact guns will be rated to the correct applied torque and everything is renewed every race. Impact guns in my experience stretch and damage threads when used excessively I've lost count of the number of studs I've had to renew at work because the thread has picked up on the nut or the stud has stretched. Sorry for the thread drift
