Cream, are you going to take the seam off the lever before anodising? Be interested to see the results, good luck.
Well, already been to gym but had to leave after 35 mins as my son had to finish trampolining early as feeling sick. Off to buy 3 fruit trees and plant them, then fix my mum's laptop which won't power on, then get ready for valentine's dinner with wifey. Liverpool V palace in FA cup in the middle of that lot too. Could also do with picking up mates pressure washer he is loaning me and 2 bags of cement and 10 bags of balast. Oh, and look after sick son.
Seriously though, the cost of the distilled water on its own is nearly the same as a small run at my local anodisers. OK, it will last year's, but still.
Just as a matter of interest and information at the same time.......... I have just spent several hours piddling about with some anodised ally exhaust cans which had been badly scratched down into the ally........... .........anodising it isn't easily repairable and it always shows if trying to cover it up.......... ...so the logic was/is remove the anodising, then polish the ally while gently removing the scratched ally surface. Mr Muscle didn't touch the anodising after four hours. Sodium carbonate in a strong solution (sometimes used a lye instead of sodium hydroxide which is caustic soda) didn't touch it after two hours. Tried some sanding material................it scratches it a bit, but the ally still can't be seen! On the plus side, I found out what to use to remove the ally exhaust can labels (with the 'heat glue') having remoived the two rivets............cellulose thinners.......... I eased the edge slightly and poured the thinners over the edge and waited, then got a very thin steel rule round end under it, and poured some more................eventually it came off undamaged but there's an effing orrible mess of really balled up sticky snot left................but cellulose thinners cleans it off as does carb cleaner.
Sodium Carbonate is washing soda. You need to use Sodium Hydroxide (caustic soda). Readily available as drain cleaner or oven cleaner. If you buy Oven Pride the caustic soda is a gel that clings onto surfaces. There are also large bags to put your parts in. Keep an eye on things as the caustic soda will eat into the ally as well.
If you had read my post in full you would see that I know which Sodium to use; but I thought I would try the only one I had available today. Mr Muscle is an oven cleaner, but as I said it didn't touch the anodising.
