How To Turn A 999 Into A Sport Classic

s suspension? The code on the forks is for R 999's apparently?

 

Subframes, Front and rear.




This was a faff..

I wanted a certain angle to the whole bodywork to make the bike look nose heavy, Very expensive fancy wooden blocks were used, very rare to find these specialist wooden blocks btw.

The original race front subframe got chopped and new same diameter and wall section tubes welded on, if you look at the gap in the picture between the bars and fairing you'll realise its about in the middle. keep that in mind...

I really really really wanted the bike to go as well as it looked, 95% of bike builds I've seen have completely destroyed the bikes ergonomics so I consulted a really nice website: http://cycle-ergo.com/

It compares the 'riding triangle' and other angles with you physically having to measure it on bikes, I compared a 999 to a Sport Classic and its clear as day why SC's are so uncomfortable to ride by the much steep forward lean angle.

SC
forward lean (back angle) 55 degrees
knee angle 83 *

999
forward lean 40*
knee 65*

What that basically means is on a normal sport classic your feet aren't that tucked in and your very far forward, on a 999 your less forward and you legs are in a nicer sportier position. I sussed out that the sport classic tank is very very long compared to a sportsbike tank, This was evident when first sat on it. So I changed some settings to see how I could bring it back to a more rideable position;
- the 999 has adjustable rearsets so the knee angle is adjustable to however you like it
- a 999 is 2 inches lower than a SC so that helped the angle by 5*
- moved the seat and tank as far forwards as I could which was about 2" (it actually just touches the steering damper under hard braking)
- I also added clipons from LSL with a 2" lift

All that brought the forward lean angle down from 55 to 42, a little sportier than a 999 but nowhere near as uncomfy as a SC. I've still to take it to a track to do final tests with this..
Also, Remember that perfect gap between the bar and the fairing? the 2" lifted clips totally f**ked that. So I had to re-do the entire front subframe.


done for now...in Wrinkle finish paint not gloss black!

The rear one was the total fuck up, It was much easier to hack up the rear subframe than start from scratch so out came the death wheel.


That last picture is of the microcontroller that turns 12v of the brake and indicator signals in 5v that the chip can rear in an analog signal, Its then ran through a simple program that outputs signals on an addressable RGB led strip at the back of the bike. Its a pointlessly complicated tail light.

Its the only way to have the indicator and brake light in one strip, Similar to modern car led tail lights.

I think next winter in 'phase 2' the electronics will go behind the front fairing with a lithium battery.

I'll say it before you do, It was very very very stupid to cut up the R model alloy subframe, I had no idea are worth so much!​

 

Cool, never knew that!