Depends on how tall you are. With the bike on the side stand, I select 1st gear, put my foot on the rear brake and apply torque with my left hand but I am 6’4” tall and have a bit of weight behind me Andy
5’ 5”. Stand on “u” bend of paddock stand with wheel locking shaft in position. Grip torque wrench with both hands, knees bent, back straight. Stand up. Done. Easy.
Its the bar thing that sticks through the wheel to stop it rotating and snaps when you are trying to undo the wheel-nut.
Have a Clarke mains powered impact wrench and a Lidle Parkside battery powered one. Don't have mains in the garage and the cheap £50 battery jobbie hasn't failed me yet but have a long extension just in case. Have a Halfords Pro torque wrench for tightening, never use the impact for that.
If you use a rattle gun to undo the nut then most times you don’t even need to hold the brake on let alone use the wheel bar. If you don’t have a wheel bar you can lock the rear wheel with a suitably strong tube.
I bought one of these… https://www.amazon.co.uk/POSENPRO-Electric-Impact-Sockets-Carrying/dp/B0969T63FK?th=1 Absolutely brilliant, takes 2 or 3 seconds to undo the rear nut and never fails.
Same... I was thinking of using a wooden block to somehow lock the rear wheel in place, but I don't know how strong the spokes are in that sense. I'd assume damage could be caused?
This is where I'm not getting it. What is the tube anchored to that stops it moving when you apply torque?
Some rear paddock stands have a horizontal, hollow tube welded to one of the uprights and certainly back in 2002 when I bought my ST4S, the Ducati stand was supplied with a rod. More recently, I believe Ducati elected to delete this function, guessing because of the ham fisted damage claims. Andy
Between a spoke and the swingarm. Improvisation is required unless you have a stand with horizontal mounting point - I am fortunate enough to have one and I’m not (overly) hamfisted.
For tightening I stand on far side of the bike with one foot on the rear brake pedal, lean over the pillion seat and pull the torque wrench upwards until it clicks. Undoing, with either the mains or battery rattle gun, with a Clarke socket, I sit on the floor and press the soles of both feet against the sidewall of the tyre at the bottom. Brrrrappp! and the nut is off.
I'm sure that you all know the old saying ...... " Necessity is The Mother Of Invention " .... ..... dear old Frank , I do miss him !
This only works with a double sided swingarm but I wrap an old towel around a crow bar and push that through the wheel and let it rest on each arm of the swingarm. I also make sure it isn't resting midway along a spoke but is pushed right up against the junction of the spoke and rim. Gently tightening the nut will bring everything to tension and then you can apply the required torque. Wouldn't fancy trying it with (non cast) spoked wheels mind....
