I've ridden my 600 carb'd Monster Dark in everything the weather throws at us even down to -5 degrees. Full choke, bit of throttle, start it and ride off after 20secs and take choke off while going along the road. Anything below 6 degrees has a negative effect on my Monsters running, fine on full throttle or constant cruising speed but more rough and vibey if I accelerate. Only other thing is below freezing I suffer carb icing and stalling at traffic lights if I don't hold revs up at standstill. I run on Shell Optimax all the time, never on 95RON unleaded.
In temperatures below say, 10degrees, mine goes onto full choke and it fires up at around 3500 rpm.........after it has started to run, say 3 seconds, it gets flipped back to half choke which drops it to around 2800 rpm.........after 30 seconds, I ride off at those revs and keep the half choke on for about a mile.......Max revs 3000 In warmer weather just under half choke will do, and I ride off after 30 seconds, half choke on for mile..,,Max revs 3000.
Cheers Al. My rev counter doesn't work unfortunately but I'm very mindful to be gentle on the revs initially, whatever the temperature.
It's the drive I think. I do have a spare rev cable but I think there's a problem with the worm(?) drive inside the block that the cable mates with. Excuse any ignorance here on my part. The previous owner araldited a cover over the aperture I think. I need to get the fairing off and have another look and take some photos. I'd love to have a working RC but I guess this is going off topic..
Yep......thought as much...............you need to deal with it, because there is probably metal swarf and chips in the lower valve cover area, if it hasn't been got out already or found its way into the filter........ ......no need to remove the engine, just need the right parts, and something to fit the silly pulley nut so you can get it undone and back tight again. This is probably what the worm will look like and you can check with a small Maglite and small mirror by looking down the drive hole where the pinion should be.........you can just see the edge of the worm teeth to know what has happened.
Thanks Al, mine looks very similar - worn teeth. I'll have to get the fairing off to get at the aperture cover.
More like broken teeth on mine....it had mashed up at least three drive pinions apparently..... .....but on mine it was a clue that the pulley silly nut may not have been tight enough allowing the worm to slip on the camshaft...........both round the cam and sideways. I expect yours to have a woodruff key in the cam to stop the worm from moving round the cam, but that wouldn't stop the worm from moving sideways on the cam if the silly nut was loose. I found mine had shagged the pulley side and centre cam bearings because they are immediately either side of the worm and the chips and swarf had got into them. If you need to know what you need and how to deal with it, just shout...........It's awkward but not that difficult and when I did it five years ago the OEM parts weren't overly expensive.
Al, here's mine- managed to get a shot of where the cable drive connects into the engine. Looks like a bolt has been glued in place here. Sorry it's not a great photo.
I had to do something very similar with the drive on mine until the new parts had arrived. The bolt is to stop oil from coming out of the boss that holds the pinion in place..... You need to whip the fairing off and unscerw the bolt that holds down the pear shaped boss, so you can get a look at the worm teeth down the hole when you have pulled the boss out, because looking at the pinion teeth, I don't think it's just a question of changing that alone.......I reckon the worm 'teeth' have been messed up as well.... The boss, pinion and worm were and should still be available as a complete assembly from say, Moto Rapido......but you may have to do something with the middle and pulley side cam bearings if you do decide to change the worm. That will mean an oil seal as well. However, even if you don't decide to replace the complete drive, there has to be a reason for the teeth to get chewed up and that needs to be investigated because it is usually caused by the belt pulley silly nut not being tightened enough. Someone here may have secondhand spare worm and pinion in good condition and I have a spare boss if you find you can't get one, which you can have for 0...it will save you having to clean yours up. (That's assuming the boss on the 750 is the same as the 900)
I must be more sympathetic that I thought. Jap stuff i don't worry about but my Ducati's have always been warmed to at least 50 degrees before I take them out. And I won't even talk about my track bike warming procedure.
Fantastic diagram, much appreciated. Now I can see what's going on because to be honest it's been something that I thought was a specialist job. I will try and find time this wkd to have a look inside and report back.
It's from one of the parts manuals.......... If you can draw the boss 28 out and remove the spark plugs you should be able to see down the boss hole just to see the edge of the worm teeth........you will obviously need to turn the engine over by hand a little at a time as you are looking. I made a socket to fit the silly pulley nut........took an hour, but you will still need to hold the pulley as well, so I made a tool using a big open end spanner and drilled two holes for bolts to pass through into the pulley... I could probably give you a step by step guide if you find you want to change the worm.
don't forget that there are at least two ratios available when you come to obtaining replacement worm and pinion.
I don't have a 750SS parts manual to be able to confirm if the tacho drive gears for the 750 are the same as the 900 and I can't really check if the ratio differences only applies to different engine capacities .....the Part Number for the 900 tacho drive gears appears to be 0660.92.160 and the boss/bush is 0660.92.150. The Parts Manual I have for the 750 Paso shows this for the gears: 066792160 (and the boss/bush is: 066092150 which is the same as all models it seems). I suppose the best way to check the right ones are obtained is to talk to Craig at MotoRapido, unless Chris can help with the relevant Part Numbers.
^ I only learnt this by accident when I swapped a head on my Elefant. That tacho now runs at around 60% of correct reading. A tooth count will do it of course and a knowledgeable parts person might know. I can't help with part numbers so hopefully year and engine number might help but if the changeover/cut-off or 'decision to fit' was anything like Lancia then no help at all.
