Valentina is now at the stealer for the belt change and whatever else they can (reasonably) find.... First casualty of the day is an indicator lens that went "weeeeeee" on the way there this morning, +£30 on the bill
So far so good, using this setup: Stock clutch master cylinder + long stock levers Clutch pack height of around 38.5mm
Still waiting for the stealer to get their priorities right and finish working on the bike. In typical stealer fashion they overbook and are comfortable in the fact they have more work than they're able to shift. Just thought I'd share a few photos of some of my previous bikes The one that taught me how to be fast (-ish !) on a track, the venerable Honda Fireblade 929: This one had so much promise but handled like a fully loaded fridge. Gen2 ZX10R....destroyed (cracked frame) it when I lost the front at 140MPH at Estoril GP track: My next to last one was a GSXR 1000 K7. Yes its over 10 years old but bloody hell could it keep up with the modern metal on the straights. It was just missing a full electronics package.
Finally pick Valentina up from the dealer and to my surprise it wasn't as expensive as I was expecting, they did: Belt change TPS adjustment Rear wheel bearing change I finally had a chance to open her up on the way back home and many fond memories of my old S4R with an open top airbox came flowing back. This makes everyone feel like Fogarty. That intake snort and the vee-twin sound, lovely! So after a better than down the road ride with the 999s and even though the TPS has been done, it still sometimes stalls when on idle. This happens when I give it a bit of throttle on idle and is sometimes accompanied by a backfire (my ears say horizontal cylinder) which feels as if its coming from intake and not exhaust. Any thoughts?
Mine does it all the time, if I've not taken it out for a while it's worse. Just like a temperamental girlfriend that you've not paid enough attention, she'll get over it.
Went out for an even longer ride today and it had a hissy or two but otherwise ok. Going to check the TPS tomorrow and also suggested CO levels with JPDiag. I have however come across another (no surprise) issue, after a 30min ride and a lot of heat buildup, the clutch lever has come so far back that it makes things rather interesting. Yes, air in the system. Thing is, I had the same sort of (not as bad) issue on my S4R with an Oberon s/c and I bled the thing until the cows came home and it was never right. I bled the system on the 999 with the bleed nipple and also the hidden bleed screw in the reservoir. Before I repeat the process once again, is there any other known issue that might cause this? Ah and I am also now calling her Valentina - The Nut Roaster !
Tried using two softwares for this, using a USB hub so they don't go crazy when the engine starts: JPDiag: I've tried to set the CO level to 20 which apparently is the factory setting for something like a 749S but when I press confirm, nothing seems to happen. Disconnect and reconnect and the value is still 0. IAWDiag: The CO trim on this seems to be different but tried +4 using the procedure. Switch ignition back on and its back to 0. No idea what I'm doing wrong!
The CO values shown in JPDiag are arbitrary and do not represent the CO reading as the software has no access to a gas analyser. If you do not have a gas analyser (like a Gunson), you need to try increasing or decreasing the CO value by small values. What you are looking for is an increase in the RPM value. You are trying to achieve is the highest RPM value you can get. JPDiag allows you to test the effect of the increase/decrease. If the RPM rises or stays the same then confirm the value. You only have a few seconds to do this. Repeat until you achieve max RPM.
Max RPM as in the largest rise from idle, correct? JPDiag is so flakey, even with 1ms polling time on the driver....
System was fully bled yesterday and the Brembo Sport Evo 500 fluid was changed for Motul RBF 660. Using the top bleed screw there were no bubbles at all. Again after clutch slipping (traffic, crossroads, shake itself to bits <2,000rpm, etc) I did notice the lever coming back slightly further. Engine temp was more civilised that the previous time out as ambient was lower. Could it be the master cylinder?
Done all that! No air bubbles yesterday. Going to bleed again this afternoon to see if any air bubbles were either missed or have found their way in. Wondering if its an overheating clutch (friction plates were 2.95mm which is below the 3mm min spec) or air is being sucked in at the master?
Thanks. Will check this afternoon for more air bubbles and maybe leave it with the clutch lever zip tied to see how it fairs until tomorrow. Instead of the m/c repair I'd probably go with a 1098/1198 m/c, apparently they don't suffer from the same issues as the 999.
Update: No air bubbles from yesterday's cracking open of the m/c bleed screw Left the clutch lever pulled in and zip tied overnight. Cut the tie this morning and lever is perfectly normal So this happens only with substantial clutch slip associated with start/stop traffic. Excessive heat build-up?
Check that your lever has enough free play. If the compensating channel (compensating port in the pic) from piston bore to reservoir is blocked the expanding fluid will eventually push the slave piston out a bit and cause slipping.
