Ah so you want ease of access as the primary driver, we'll thats a different aspect to the actual requirements/benifits /issues envelope then... I'd say only you can be the judge but still I'd say CV carbs dont always like having an airbox removed, and it could just lead you into more grief with rough running than you already have. And if you dont solve it with the airbox isnt changing to cones going to make it harder to debug when it could mean more changes to the fuel curve are needed? ps poor running at low revs is a standard feature of these bikes so you could be chasing your tail trying to find nirvana that doesnt exist. That said I havent heard or ridden yours so I dont know how bad it is but I did own a 900sl from nearly new (1/2 year old not run in etc) and it was a pig under 3k compared to a jap multi (dealer serviced setup even by Chris Clarkes at one point). My current 900SL which is 24k miles old is worse as the carbs needles have wear (though not gummed or blocked) ... anyway sorry if i appear to be putting a downer on it but just wondered if your looking for alternatives that could be making it worse for yourself. PS those filters look like they will flow a shed of air but are they waterproof .
My poor running at low revs started suddenly and appears to be on the horizontal cylinder only.....been OK for three years and then it started, but it is intermittent...say, it does it 60% of the time.......idle was perfect (that would have been 'is', but of course I have been playing)...and OK above 2000rpm. Electrics / ignition all seem to check out OK, carbs all clean and correct, compressions OK etc etc etc..........but I am effing sick having to keep taking the bl**dy airbox out to get at anything to do with the carbs....... ....bear in mind I have been working on cars and bikes since....well, a d*mn long time (including race stuff).....not so hot on injection and computerised stuff though, but 'simple' carbed machines should be a doddle for me........but I'm fkd if I can find the problem. Got some intake rubber connectors coming shortly.....it might be the ones on my bike that are causing it........See? Even a rough intake rubber means the airbox has to come off....... I think the filters do allow a good airflow, but I'll bet they aren't waterproof too.......but then neither is the standard paper one...... However, if I carry out surgery on an airbox I can retain the front vertical section to keep some of the wet out... ........if I ever get out in the wet.......because at this effing rate I'm not even going to get out in the dry..... AL
Al, I'm only chiming in as what you have kind of sounds of like what I had a few weeks ago with my 750ss. I know it's not much and you have a lot more experience than me but I had issues with rough running on horizontal cylinder (exact same issues) due to the temperamental weather, especially the wet, damp weather. Been using Fuchs Silkolene to sort out the carb icing and it's been fine ever since. Not sure if that's helpful as I'm sure you've already looked into that.
I would be inclined to work on some sort of quick-release maybe Dzus-style fastenings for said airbox & fix your existing problems rather than add NEW problems by adding random pod filters of any description?? How are you going to know if they are running/fueling right if the bike isnt running right anyways? My 2p.
It weren't the cold.....did it when it was warm too.....and I have carb heaters which actually work (or they did before I pulled the bike apart)....Never had a problem even the last three winters. AL.
Changing the filters isn't going to affect things that I can't sort easily.............if the effing airbox isn't in the bl**dy way..........it will be down to mixture, float height and needle position......most of that on a carbed bike can be done by ear, feel and plug colour etc (and possibly another little trick up my sleeve)....shouldn't really need balance gauges either, but as the carbs are linked....... It just p*sses me off that I can't get at the d*mn synch and tickover screws (not that they were out anyway) because the oil cooler is right in the way; and if it is a carb cr*p issue (rather than a cr*p carb issue) then that bl**dy box has to come out for the fifth time..... ........it would be so easy to just lift the tank with the engine running and give what ever screw the tweak it needs..... ......but as yet, still no replacement float assembly is on the horizon, so the carbs aren't even back on the bike and I'm getting bored and not looking forward to sticking it all back together again because I'm not satisfied I have found the problem as yet...... ........when I have a problem I want to see it and so far I have seen nothing that is causing it, even though I changed several items when I didn't need to. And as you can tell I'm getting right waspy with that large lump of inanimate black plastic..........maybe I should even try drilling two 20mm holes through it which can take a blanking grommet in each, which can be pulled out and a screwdriver stuck through to get at the screws.... AL
That wont work as the mixture screws and tthe tickover are accessible from the bottom. p.s. I thought you were suffering from P.M.T. (pre-mechanical tension) :smile:
Not when there is an effing oil cooler in the way.........with short carb heater hoses so it can't be pulled out of the way.... ,,,,but if I drilled the two 20 - 25mm holes in the airbox in the right location (which is easily worked out on the back wall of the lower 'chamber') I could whip the airbox top off and take the filter out, remove the two blanking grommets and insert a screwdriver through one of the holes using a mini maglite through the other.........but then, I have just made a flexible tickover screw extension, so it's just the synch screw I have to locate in the dark.... AL.
Sounds as if it would be easier sending a man to the moon, spend yer £8 and see if they work ya tight git! :wink: p.s. you also have to make a battery box and coil holder along with the igniters and solenoid unless you intend on using the existing minus the filter housing p.p.s. there is always cable ties for a quick fix.
Those larger ones with the inverted end cost more, but they are larger and are better constructed from what I can see.....A bit of guesswork will be employed to see if the fit in the space available, but they should (I think).... The airbox mod is simple, remove the top, filter and the grid.......then literally cut vertically through the box on the front side of the vertical coil mounting bit.....that means the coils etc and the battery are still in their original location. ......and......maybe a vertical cut through the remains of the airbox, so that the complete front 'panel' of it is retained (and the fixing lugs).....that way the front might afford some weather and cr*p protection....... ......if the pieces are a bit wobbly on their lugs, then maybe the grid could go back on to join front and back as a stiffener....at least I could get a hand through the grid..... AL.
My coils are mounted inside the frame to the back of the rectifier.....my airbox is no more, the battery is a 300g Li battery which sits on a velcro'd steel shelf attached to the right hand fairing mount locating hole.......I can access all the screws I need to...and Al, if you need float assemblies, I have some in the spare carbs I raid for parts, I thought you'd already got some tho? You are welcome to them if they help ? The tickover screw on a Mikuni VM38 fitted to a TDM Yamaha has a knurled, extended thumbscrew to adjust the tickover with a deft flick of the wrist......
David you are running long or short inlets on yours? I always liked no air box look but am afraid what it will do to power band?
Hi Dave......Yes I did decide to get some new float assemblies because the four I have were showing some signs of wear (although one isn't too bad).....unfortunately one of the pair of new floats I got from Allens is defctive and they were out of stock for a replacement....they have been due in from Mikuni for about two weeks now.........You know what is going to happen if I get fed up waiting and stick one of the old ones in, don't you........?? Thanks for the offer.........I'll see what happens in the next few days. I now have a flexible drive tickover screw which is on a small bracket on the lower forward left side down tube. AL. PS Might be handy to see a pic of your bike 'naked'.......
I've got both Lucasz and Al...I have Malossi inlets which mean I have to use split Mikunis, and I have std ones.......splits dont allow the use of the cone filter cos the frame gets in the way, tho I've removed the cross bar from the SS frame....
Just had a quick look at a spare filter box in the garage... Right - my bad if this wont work in practice but I am working from a bare airbox, not a bike (cant be arsed to uncover it, lift the seat & tank etc...:biggrin A quick-release filter box - bend up a piece of thick alloy/stainless to fit here (possibly a bit wider, grabbed a random bit of cardboard) and drill/bolt it to the middle section of the unit just in front of the battery straps. A further two drilled holes will mean you can mount the coil/ignitor boxes bracket to it instead of the filter box itself? Cut the unit in half inbetween the plate and the back of the filter box. You now have two separate units - no need to disconnect/remove the battery & coil/ignitor box bracket, this remains in place supported between the two mounting bolts/rubbers. To remove the filter box you flip the tank up, loosen the jubilee clips & remove the two front bolts - filter box should now pull out! No Drama's. :biggrin:
Might even do this to my bike when I service the carbs soon? No worries if it dont work, will just fit the spare? Hmmmm....
Do not know re carbed SS but carbed monster will be a squeeze if at all possible to remove due to ignition barrel. I can tell you it would not work on SSie. I could make it work on monster by having quick release coils as well so I could slide the box back to clear ignition barrel and then up.
I reckon the tank holding down strap clip thingy will still need to be removed as well before the front half can be lifted out.....(ignition switch is not in the way on carbed models)...... ....plus of course, the breather pipes still have to come off......but without the airbox and filter in place, adjustments to running won't be correct, so filters and no airbox is possibly an alternative way to go.... AL
