A very simplistic answer, making manifolds/pipes size match the port sizes, so there is no steps, plus sizing ports to match gas flow/speed that is desired for engine use and power characteristics (ie; where in the rev range your power is wanted etc) This is worked out using a complicated formula, taking into account engine size, air volume, cam profile, etc....etc...
Just polish the ports, then match the inlet port/manifold sizes, shape, use the gasket if it has one for a guide. the same on the exhaust, on the front pipe, if it's welded on the inside, if room, get it welded on the outside then grind off the inside weld and match the port/pipe sizes as well.
I wont be able to do anything with the pipe now as its away being ceramic coated (inside and out) - It was covered in rust from years of off-roading...so it seemed like the obvious choice to clean it up.
Just to throw something out here. Inlet ports, from what I've read, benefit from having a rough finish as the boundary layer is turbulent which helps improve airflow. I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong
Thought id throw a few pics up....all going well. Various bits are away at different corners of this fair land being, coated, blasted, dipped etc etc.... It should all get more interesting in a few weeks when a. all the stuff comes back shiny and b. I can get started assembling it all...
Those magnesium covers are not too long-living. I had a KTM 500 (2-stroke) which, admittedly, didn't get much use (mainly because it was a c**t to start) but the coolant corroded through the mag water pump housing and ended up in the gearbox. Every ride was an event though, even if it often ended in something breaking/dropping off. The best was the carb (54mm Bing IIRC) which would vibrate against the crankcase until it wore a hole in the float bowl and then leak fuel almost as fast as it could fill - still ran OK until I stopped it then couldn't get enough fuel to pass to the engine before the tank would empty. 'Fixed' it with a Ford Capri valve stem seal cable-tied onto the 'teat' of the floatbowl as a kind of condom...
Dropped them off today at the coaters today.... He's going to have a go at stripping them and let me know...
Bradders I will let you know when the little fella's next out [more than likely Cadwell] you are more than welcome to give it a spanking' I was at Cadwell a couple of weeks ago for the open class at the Beezumph do nothing repeat nothing got in my way fom the chicane to halfway down the start -finish straight ,I had to work hard after that though ,great fun. Next project on the go is a bike for Spa next year for the Cassic super bike series
Just a bit of an update...It all in bits. Everything that needs to be coated or cleaned, blasted or whatever....is...got the frame, swing arm and other bits back....great job from rpa engineering in bristol....looks like brand new....
That looks nice. I went for the 525 for a number of reasons 1. Not too big not too small 2. Knew the history of it. 3. Could sell a load of bits off of it to go towards the build. 4. Parts are cheap.... The rear mudguard/side panel cost 28 quid new! 5. Easy to strip down.... About 3 hours.... Although the putting it back together bit I haven't done yet. 6. Can service it myself reasonably easy. It's going well at the moment.... I'm almost through the clean, blasting, anodising etc etc. The engine is shipped to the cases and sent away being coated. I'm really interested to see the result. The lad doing the coating reckons it'll look better than it did when it came off the production line. It's getting coated in this stuff... Low Friction Coatings - Xylan | Sandwell My mate has had his engine done in this stuff, his 25 year old katana engine looked brand new! Another month and I should have it back. When the hyper engine has to come out it'll be getting done the same way.... Show ducati how it should be done!
Collecting pics of 525s at the moment for reference and ideas... Cheers. That looks nice. Follow the link at the start.... It's rubbing along well at the moment...
