Yea not that I have noticed. Like you said, the main concern at the moment is the lack of performance. The oil dropping I thought might have been relevant but my main concern is the power.
It will be interesting to see if properly tight plugs increase the compression and restore performance. Fingers crossed...
If for some weird reason, you were getting a false reading of your oil level and therefore over-filling, then that could seriously affect the engine's ability to breathe, which would have an impact on performance. It could also cause oil seals to blow but I would expect oil to have made its way through the breather system to the air filter in that case and you have checked that.
After my ride out this evening of 500 meters and back i found that the oil and the little bit of white smoke didn't present itself as an issue but the power is still not there. I gave it as much as I could and couldn't see any smoke coming out the exhaust. So this potentially could just be condensation as someone suggested. And there is no change to the oil level (Not that I went far) buy my key issue of the power is still there. When I went to ride out first thing i notice first my battery is flat.... now I don't know if this is as a result of me spending a lot of time tinkering and starting the bike up but its probably been 2 years since i bought it and it needed a new battery then. My only thoughts are now, I've had coils go in cars in the past and its felt like a similar loss of power. Is it possible I have had a coil go? The other thing i'm thinking is some bad fuel may have clogged my system up some how?
Old fuel, water in the carburettor float bowls, water in the diaphragm fuel pump, partially blocked breather in petrol cap, blocked fuel filter, clogged up idle mixture screws and circuitry, these are all worth checking if the bike has stood for some time.
It hasn't stood tho. At one point during July / August I was commuting 3 to 4 days a week to work on it. That dropped off with the weather but it's never been stood more than a week or 2 since April.
A couple of things to look at. Are both cylinders firing? (could indicate if one plug/coil is failing) Check exhausts are both getting equally hot (back of hand or water spray to test). Is the tick over smooth or lumpy (Could indicate if carbs/injectors are out of sync or TPS failure).
Would be good to confirm it has carburretors, if it's a 1999 and definitely "600" then it's almost certainly a "Dark" carb apparently.
It doesn't sound rough when you start it up however it will always eventually cut out when left to idle with choke fully open, no matter how warm the engine is. That could be cuz of a flat battery tho? You only notice it sounds rough when you try and accelerate when you pull out on the road. I'll do the exhaust check tonight. Is there a way for me to tell? From what i've read i'm almost certain they didn't introduce an injected monster until 2000 and then that was only the 900. Plus the parts catalogue I use when ordering spares shows it as a carburetor and has no mention of an injection system.
The 600 is carburettors. If you have the owners manual then it should specify. I think that they may be Mikuni.
Both exhausts are getting equilly warm. Tick over sounds fine with the chock not fully open, but potentially a little airy... but now I don't know if i'm imagining that. I've now charged the battery back up and its working ok again and but it is still cutting out if the choke is fully open. It also takes may 60 seconds with the choke closed for the egine to rev up which it usually does usually after 10 seconds or so (at this slightly warmer time of year). Does that suggest that the air / fuel ratio is wrong and its possibly not putting enough fuel in to match the air?
Not exactly sure what you mean when you say choke is fully open or closed. If you mean that the bike will cut out when the choke is fully on then I would not worry about that. It is not that cold to warrant full choke and about half choke would be ok. If after a couple of minutes you can have the choke only very slightly on then the bike should pull away fine.
Just post a couple of pictures of bike, one from each side to confirm carb or injection, it's the only way to be certain.
A pic from above and behind the front wheel up under the tank would be even better. Almost certainly a carb bike though.
Apologies, apparently it’s dead easy on a Monster to distinguish carb from injection from a side view, so no need for an under tank shot - I was thinking of my SS.
Apart from the battery charger I have plugged in, the previous owner happened. And i've been pulling at it following the fuel lines to see if there was a blockage/kink anywhere. bought it very cheap as it had no MOT at the time and needed quite a few odd jobs doing to it. The wirring was none essential (it aint broke so done fix it type thing).
