Yes it is, the engine has been partially apart before. I suspect the pick ups have been replaced with aftermarket, to go with the Ignitech, as they measured a lot higher than factory.
Be interested to see how you get on with the Ignitech unit as I have one also but with the stock 900ie engine and carb chassis electrics in my hybrid mishmash bike.
Do you mean the crank plug as in this pic? A little tricky to see through the top of the engine but if there's no protrusion, you're probably OK. The alloy 'bits' are worrying though as there aren't too many places they could have come from. As for the fork springs; 0.6 - was the last owner a small child? FWIW, I have 0.9 springs in mine which work well for me (at 13st) though they are 916 Showa forks and have K-tech valving so not sure if this makes it directly comparable? They were originally 1.0 from Ducati for 916 and too stiff so I had them swapped to 0.95 for my 916, which I then upgraded to Ohlins so these were spare for the Monster but with 0.95 they were really stiff (lighter bike) and so went with 0.9 which are about right. I did add an extra 10ml of fork oil to stop them bottoming out under hard braking though but, that might be due to the K-tech valving and 5w oil rather than overall spring weight?
If it's backing out you can just see it. I got a small screwdriver and could just move it, so decision made, split the casings. Cheers Gaz
This is only correct if the springs were single rate. As standard they are normally dual rate and some replacements are multi-rate. You can’t use a linear compression gauge as a guide unless you apply the load only across the highest rate section. I can’t see a picture of the originals to see if they are single rate. IMO if you ever want to be able to work with the suspension sensibly, especially for track use, you would never use anything other than single rate springs, so you have gone in the right direction with the replacement springs.
That's the one (the big plug that is), I'll still split the cases to check for any damage and debris and whilst there I'll stake the plug for peace of mind. Hopefully I've got the right spring for me, it's got to be better at least
I'll get a pic of the ones that came out, I assumed they were single rate as the coil pitch?? looked consistent down the length. If you or anyone has advice for setting sag I'd be interested, my current plan is to use some PVC pipe (for ease of changing lengths) to get the spacer I need. From what I have seen I am aiming for 30% of total travel so 40ish mm for rider sag?
I would not use PVC myself, I would expect it to deform over time. I use aluminium or delrin (nylon) tube cut to length. The value you aim for depends on how you intend to use the bike. On the track we are a fair way under your figure. For me, the most important first step for measuring front rider and static sag and one I have seen a lot of people who should know better get wrong is: you must put some preload on the fork springs before you start. You can do that with the spacer length or the preload adjusters, but start with the spring in a light but definitely preloaded condition and measure. If you are under your target on sag you have the wrong springs in, and need a softer set. People wind the adjusters off from there to get the number they want convinced they are then correctly set up, when all they have achieved is an uncontrolled section of suspension at the top of it’s travel.
Sorry, I should have mentioned the PVC is just while I figure out the spacer length I need. I have some metal tube supplied with the springs that I will use but there is only just enough so I'll mock up with the pvc then cut the metal tube once I'm happy. I have the non-adjustable forks but the springs definitely have some preload, about 10mm I would guess.
These vertical cyl studs are testing me, the others came out with some effort but these ones I haven't even managed to turn at all. Repeated doses of gas torch and atf/acetone mix but nothing yet. Next is to try a stud extractor but I don't have much hope for that so I expect the welder to make an appearance fairly soon.
M nine, What are you using to turn the studs? I think I had a mixture of brittle studs some had X on ans some M. A couple of mine were really stubborn, it did end up taking some of the threads out of the casing holes and I had to put a thread insert in one. Cheers Gaz
The first four (all horizontal cylinder) came out using the double nut method. The vertical studs didn't move at all until I got a cam type extractor on them, I had to grind a flat on them to get any kind of bite. Two came out cleanly but with massive amounts of force required, no amount of heat or penetrant seemed to help these ones. The last two are proving even more difficult so I might take it down my local engine reconditioners for them to have a go.
Have you tried welding a bar to the stud itself? Like post #56 and #57 here I would still be heating the base of the stud though to try to save as much of the case threads as possible.
I’d get the welder on them, also the heat generated from welding is far better than a torch and helps them break free.
Not sure if it's worth trying, but could another option be welding a nut on to the stud & getting a long spanner on it. You'd need to heat the stud up too & if you have any dye penetrant that can help. Although dye penetrant is for locating cracks in metals, it, by its nature "wicks" into the smallest of cracks & in these sorts of instances acts as a lubricant on the threads. Ideally you could do with spraying some on & leaving it to soak in, the longer the better. We use it a lot in the aircraft industry, especially for bolts seized in engines !
Wow, that bar is big! I tried welding a nut on them (after pic was taken) but they just sheared off lower down, I had been heating them and applying penetrant for a week prior too I like doing most stuff myself but not these miserable jobs we are heading into summer now and I'm keen to ride to the Cemetary Circuit street race on Boxing day so will pay an outfit to sort it and any chewed threads.
I had a Britool cam stud extractor, it was quite a solid bit of kit the cam was in the middle of 2 arms rather than just having one arm. Anyway, it sounds like you are heating the stud. Maybe this would pass heat into the casings but would be better to heat the casing. Being that tight I would be surprised if the stud does not bring some casing threads out with it. As I mentioned I had similar problem and chose a product called Time serts. I made a jig and did the inserts myself, and they have been fine for about 800 miles. See final post https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/thread-inserts.30429/ Cheers Gaz
Not much of an update, the engine shop couldn't get them out using conventional means either so they machined them out then repaired the thread. Unfortunately they got also got a heap of crap in the crankcase so I should probably do all the bearings and seals and while I'm at it I may as well repaint everything. A bit disappointing to be chucking more cash at it, I'll have to keep it for a long time to make it worth it
M That's disappointing. Each to their own but I am not a great fan of painting - paint it once, paint it forever. Aqua blast and coat with acf50. Cheers Gaz
