Hmm... I cant find how to adjust the individual parameters .i.e if say I wanted a fast rebound and a slow compression. All I can find is To me this is just picking a factory default and not each individual setting for rebound or compression
S sorry what I meany was the setting changes available seem to make little difference and are not a great help, a forum member has got an upgraded new rear spring made,but the original should be good! I fail to see why a lot more money should be spent to replace a part that is not performing adequately.
in your diagram above, 'front preload' etc. Have you done it on the bike? The manual isn't very well described imo I had to have a play first to understand. You can adjust it all@ preload, comp, reb as a setting ie softest to hardest
Top of the right hand fork. There are arrows on the nut and fork to help. I think the range is just under 10 turns. Mine was set 3/4 turn anticlockwise. I set mine about half way at 5 turns. There are no instructions in the owners manual and I've not seen a workshop manual for the Skyhook model yet.
Spring upgrades tend to be done by those of errrrr........above average weight, especially if they do a lot of two up and/or with full luggage riding - most owners don't generally feel the need for the higher rated spring(s)
Rofl. you saying I'm Fat? hehe you'd be right of course, and I could give a feck, it's only other people that seem to have a problem with it. stupid Kate Moss n Bradley Pit.
Preload adjustment on the front is manually adjusted. Left fork has the electronic compression damping control and the right fork has the electronic rebound damping control. (Ohlins forks) The spring preload of the two fork stanchions is adjusted by turning the large blue hexagonal nut at the top ends of the stanchions themselves (tightening the nut increases preload, loosening the nut decreases preload). Disconnect the electrical connectors for the electronic damping/rebound controllers first! ;-)
Thats my learn for today then, just googled it and its manual on the front for preload Who knew?! I just ride the bloody thing lol
Not much different only the blue nut is black and the electronic one is on the left and the preload is on the right. I had noticed the arrows but it hadn't occurred to me that it was for the preload.
I set the preload on my (Ohlins) forks to maximum preload, using the blue hexagonal adjusters. It is OK, and better than before, but still not quite hard enough even solo let alone pillion. Then again, I am a big chap.
You need the strength of Sampson to turn the blighter.the front I can live with,it is the rear I find disappointing and ultimately I think performs poorly.
Steve I have just checked my front pre-load and when I turned the nut anti-clockwise with the intention of reducing the pre-load it hit the end stop in about half a turn. So I have turned it clockwise a few turns and though not certain feel that it may have reduced it - no chance to try on the road yet. Can you confirm that it is clockwise to reduce the pre-load - the opposite to what I had expected?
