It's OK. Expensive for what it is. The Shorai batteries are equally as good in my experience and better value for money. No plumbing on this bike!
So, a bit of an update. Lots of time spent on this conversion over the past weeks. Wiring was the biggest job, but is now done. New airbox mounting brackets fabricated, including mounts for the ignition coils. New reg/rec wired in and bracket fabricated. 749 ECU reprogrammed to remove immobilizer, run without a dash, and to match the new loom (originally from a Streetfighter). It's now ready to get new header pipes made.
After much thought and evaluating various quasi bolt-on exhaust headers, I decided to get a system made from scratch. Using stock 1100 header stubs, it runs equal length headers to the existing silencers with a balance pipe, all made from 1.2mm thick stainless steel.
As a matter of interest, when the fabricator was making up the exhaust for you, did they have the complete bike with them? Just wondering how they know how much of a bend to put where so it all fits. Nice job they/you have done
Yes, they had the complete bike including fairings to make sure it all fits. And, yes, the quality of the welding is superb. Can't take credit for that!
Nice exhaust! I find it hard to find suitable pipe with 1.2mm thickness in stainless steel. May I ask for contact details for the fabricator?
Hi again, some comments to your 1100 engine transplante. * I would recommend you to remove 5mm from the spacer that sits inside the front sprocket in order to get better alignment between the front and rear sprocket. The 1000 SS had a special spacer 713.1.204.1A length 14,5mm instead of 713.1.157.1A/713.1.393.1A length 19,5mm found an all other 1000/1100 engines. * With the 59M/5AM ECU you will need to change the timing gear. For example from a Hym1100DS. BR
The front sprocket spacing is all sorted. The ECU is programmed as a 848 Street fighter (which matches the loom used), so timing gear should not be an issue (uses the same "missing tooth" gear). I'm pretty sure that's correct but happy to take more knowledgeable advice.
Yes, a bit more difficult to come by than the more common 1.5 wall tubes. Best place I've found is Goodfabs. I think the fabricator got it from there. Exhaust was done by CSK Race Exhaust in Pocklington. Very reasonably priced, too. Here are a couple close-ups:
Fuel pump is sorted. Used the relevant parts from a 1098 fuel pump (the pump, screen, and pressure regulator) and retrofitted to 900ss fuel tank. Not expecting any issues with throttle bodies as they're from the same engine. Should I expect issues?
Front sprocket Good https://www.goodfabs.com/ Perfect! Timing gear. The M1100DS uses a Siemens/Continetal ECU that have a different timing gear which have 22 + 2 missing + 22 + 2 missing. Versus the 59M/5AM that have 46 + 2 missing. Note that there are two version of the timing gear 46 + 2 missing. One for sensor mounted in the engine-casing at 11 oclock and one for sensor mounted in the alternator cover at 9 oclock. Fuelpump That will do. TB You should be fine. However in some cases the Idle airpump can cause some issues. If that happends it is easy to just blank it off. And use the airscrews to set the idle the old fashion way. And your TPS will be fine.
Ah! Excellent info. I'll check the timing gear issue. Would you happen to know the model that uses the 46+2 gear with 11 o'clock sensor position? Or even part number? Currently planning on making the air bypass valve functional. If it becomes too difficult, I'll just blank it off.
Cheers! Yes, just parused the various parts catalogs. My 1100 monster engine apparently has the 22+2 gear which has the missing teeth twice. The Hypermotard is, as you say, the correct one. Will get one ordered! Great spot btw. Would have scratched my head on that one for a fair bit! Many thanks! I owe you one!
With regards to the 46/2 timing gear. Are the differences where the missing teeth are, to do with sensor pick up face position, or actual physical timing position of the timing cross shaft relative to tdc?
From what I can deduce from the various parts catalogues, it's the location of the missing teeth with respect to the gear's keyway. In other words, if you imagine the keyway in a fixed position (somewhere close to 12 o'clock), the location of the missing teeth matches the timing sensor location (either 11 o'clock if located in the crankcase, or around 9 o'clock if located in the alternator case).
Correct. 59M/5AM/Mitsubishi Newer version with sensor in engine. With keyway at 12 oclock the missing are at 11 oclock and the dot marking are just before 11 oclock Normally it has 6 holes, 4 bigger & 2 smaller ones. 16M/15M/59M/5AM Older version with sensor in cover. With keyway at 12 oclock the missing are at 9 oclock and the dot marking are just before 11 oclock Normally it has 2 smaller holes. So it seems that they just adjusted the position of the missing teeth on the timing gear when they moved the sensor position. No adjustment to the keyway and no adjustment in the software. The Siemens/Continental With keyway at 12 oclock the missing are at 3:20 oclock AND 9:20 oclock the dot marking are just before 11 oclock Normally it has 6 bigger holes.
It seems these gears are only available with the "matching" smaller gear from Ducati. What is there to match? Slightly off topics but since the Siemens ECU sees two triggers, how does it know which cylinder is at TDC? Wasted spark?
