Hi Chris, yes, it has stood unused for approximately 2 years and the plugs are indeed Both NGK DCR9EXI Iridium ones. Happy to try the “8”’s as you have suggested
Cured my non-starting 999 by swapping from iridium to stock after much head scratching as to why it wouldn’t run.
Hi Chris, I think that the stock ones are Champion branded, I can check with my local dealer in the morning and happy to try anything to get the old girl running again.
If NGK "9" is std then stick with them but thought yours would run "8" as std. The reason for asking about standing time, is that injectors might be "dribbling" and partly responsible for non-starting mystery. It's not without risk, but have you tried giving it a helping hand with WD40 or GT85 or similar? I use it all the time now in place of Easy Start as the aerosol propellant is highly flammable. If you haven't done this before then use with care, only continue short sprays if engine is trying to start, don't spray continuously if no coughing whatsoever.
Hi, I would put money on the fuel hoses in the tank having perrished and you not getting enough fuel pressure. Your symptoms are quite typical when a hose doesn't hold pressure. You may also have bits of jellyfied rubber in your injectors.
if S4 has same/similar fuel pump and hose set-up as 748/916 then can't be ruled out if badly fractured, but I find bike (or car) with same will usually start and idle fine but will baulk when raising revs or loading engine.
Hi, I have tried Easy Start but only sprayed into the intakes and leaving for a few seconds before trying to start it as per the instructions but happy trying WD40 and GT85 as I have those.
Hi, yes, it could well be injector related given the time it’s been off the road. Looks like a bit of a faff to remove the airbox and inlet assembly but happy giving it a go if new plugs doesn’t resolve the issue
When removing the airbox getting the inlet trumpets to turn can be difficult, especially the front one where access is limited. I have used a small chain wrench around the base of them when they have been really stubborn. When re-assembling make sure to grease the o-rings, it will make life easier the next time. The other difficulty with the airbox is getting that screw out behind the steering head. access is very restricted because of the radiator. I suggest that when the airbox is off you screw a short M6 Allen screw into the hole that the screw came out of. When you refit it, remove the sleeve from the rubber grommet that the original screw goes through. The head of the Allen screw will fit into the grommet and serve to locate the airbox in a fore and aft direction and it will be held down by the inlet trumpets and the 2 long screws at the rear. No more stuggling with that awkward screw, ever. If you feel up to it it would be worthwhile checking the TPS setting while you have the airbox off.
Hi Derek, many thanks for your comments relating to the airbox and it’s removal. The good news is that I have made progress this evening and will post 2 video links shortly
Well, Day 2 update time after sourcing a secondhand pair if spark plugs, video link here...... Following on from that I cranked the engine over and sprayed copious amounts of Easy Start into the intakes. Video of the effect of that here...... So it looks like I have made great progress this evening and now looking at possible injector cleaning Thanks to everyone for their thoughts/comments so far
You can use a 9v battery to power the injectors to clean them. Use brake cleaner or petrol and a toothbrush when they're open and blow them through with compressed air. Works for me.
