one early sign that could mean (O.E.M.) Regulator is about to fail is dashboard lights flickering on and off, usually when bike has warmed up/been running 10 mins or more.
Apologies if I'm asking a question that's been asked before' Re regulators, I'm rebuilding my 1098s and the connectors for the regulator are fried. While I could replace the connectors I wanted to ask if anyone has any advice on the regulator, should I replace it as I've read in a few places it's a known weak link. Then what should I replace it with, are MOSFET reg's OK with std battery or should I go for a Li (the battery needs replacing too) Cheers
if you have fried connectors already then Regulator replacement would be a matter of course for me because it will already have almost certainly been working overtime as a result of the problem be it high-resistance in loom/connectors or regulator itself. You can replace the std regulator with a Shindengen Mosfet equivalent with no need to upgrade anything else. You can pick them up (you need the short "Triumph" lead ideally) as a kit new for around £120 approx but I have used 3 secondhand so far for around £30 (plus £20 for above loom). There are many places you could choose to fit it, and moving to a cooler site (as Rob above) is a popular one but you will need a bespoke longer loom for that route. You can fit it in almost the same place as std by using a D.I.Y. shadow/adaptor plate. As you already have damaged connectors then this might lend itself to mounting in a cooler place as above, as you have to replace connectors (and possibly melted loom?) anyway.
If you go for a UK manufactured MOFSET type from Electrex World https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/ you will still find they will not warranty their units if used with a Lithium Battery - this is due to what the industry calls 'Thermal Events' I would consider re siting into better airflow if you really wanted a Lithium Battery too...
Having read some of the other posts today on Litium batteries I think I'll not go there. Already got my hands full putting the bike back together which has ended up as a "nut and bolt" rebuild
Seriously I've gone from "It's just a £30 part to replace" to "I can't live with it now I've seen these things". https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/gallery/albums/1098s-rebuild.993/ now I'm on the other side of the curve https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/gallery/albums/coming-back-together.1059/ I missed the June date for having it finished but to be fair I didn't quote a year! I just want to hear it running and I'll contemplate options later
Here's the direct link... https://www.rmstator.com/en_ww/products/lithium-regulator-rectifier-rms023-106203
Inspired by the great original post of Robanaro, I wanted to find an even colder location for the regrec, and that's what I found. I thought sharing some pictures in case they might inspire others. I used an angle grinder, a threading tap, a milling machine (even though not strictly necessary) and some other standard workshop tools.
That’s nice but does it mean you have to remove the reg/rec when you take off the fairing? Also, why did you cut holes in the connectors?
There is no need to remove the reg/rec when removing the fairing as far as you leave the inner black-plastic triangle attached (as in the first image). Just because I initially planned to solder the wires directly on the reg/rec, but finally opted not to. The cleanest solution would be to buy the corresponding adapters, but I just wasn't patient to wait.
