Well, all finished. Not had a chance to test them yet as the bike has no MOT or tax, but I'm riding it to the MOT station on Thurs or Fri so will see what they're like then. It's quite a bit of work to do the conversion and you need to be handy with the spanners but on looks alone it's worth it!!
...and so it's not all beer and skittles after taking it one step further.... I fitted OZ Racing Magnesium rims 3 weeks ago. All the good braking gear swapped across course. Riding it back from the dealers and gave the picks a good squeeze - shuddering something epic braking form speed! Jesus that's not right. Did it again, same result. Not enough to throw you off but she was NOT happy. Repeated over and over on the way home up the Motorway (Expressway here) and slightly reduced the shuddering. Improved somewhat as I gave then a mullering on the way home. Then rolling to a stop using the front, which is highly unusual for me as I've got the Uber back stopper.....fark fark FARK...pulsing. Noooo...pulsing, noooo. I could have freaking wept. Had the run out checked last weekend and they are not warped thank God. My spanner man is at a loss except to give em heaps and maybe they will improve. Me? I'm gonna give the rotors a good scrubbing (dry) with the green pot scourers. Maybe there's some pad residue on the rotors and there's a micro high & low spot on the rotors. Be that as it may, they still work like beasts. Any opinions / advice much appreciated.
I'd go with residue/whatnot on the discs. The lighter wheels will have made the symptoms worse as there's less rotational force to counter it. Wouldn't mind a set of the OZs myself, but all mods are on hold until after the Monster 12 demo ride.
Doodle, my thoughts exactly. I've been wracking my brain about this as the the brakes were sensational on the original rims. I'd been thinking that the greater rotational mass of the standard rims may have "masked" any of the weirdness I'd spoken of above - the OZ Mags' are freakishly light, so any anomalies would (are) transmitted / magnified big time..I hope/guess. I'll weigh the OEM rims on the weekend. The OZ Rcing front is 2.674kgs. I'll hit the rotors with the scourers this weekend and give them a right seeing to - being iron, they'd be more likely to accumulate residue than stainless. I think. Ah yes the M1200. Hope you've got tiny feet ;-)
Two things to check / consider: Are the discs fitted on the correct sides (this. Can affect grab, especially if using discs with offset bobbin mounts like the ) Are the discs correctly seated onto the rim ( if it's not then you can get serious run out even though the disc is fine) So if you spin the wheel with the bike on tne stand, does it spin Freely ? If you apply a bit of lever pressure, do the pads evenly contact all the way around, and is there an area of greater resistance ? Chances are, if they were fine before, something is not fitted quite right. This could be something as basic as the callipers being bolted up slightly askew. Hope you get it sorted mate.
Size 10. That said, I find the foot controls on the MTS are a little too long for my liking...used to stumpy rearsets.
JW, checked all (most) of your suggestions and all checks out ok. My superb mechanic did that. He felt bad about it too so took some ownership of this but fit & runout checked ok. What we/he didn't check was spinning the front 'free' and checking brake / rotors for pad residue or buildup. From everything I've read, nearly all the symptoms mine shows points to pad crud on the rotors. So the wife has kindly furnished me with green scourers for the task tomorrow and with the words; get scrubbing! I'll give it a bloody good shot hoping this is the cure. I'll keep you posted mate.
Update: Well after a good scrubbing with the Scotchbrites and a quick blat today I can report nearly 98% reduction in the shuddering, braking from 'progress' speed. However the very low speed pulsing is still there. I'll give them another scrubbing after the coming weekend as I'm on a 400 mile run next weekend which may improve things even further.
Managed to get an hour on mine yesterday. Bedded in the ceramic pads. Fook me, what a difference. I think I may now need to get stiffer fork springs!!
Impressive yeah?! Worth every penny/cent. Is yours a 2010/2011 or 2012? If so heavier springs not required. An Ohlins Suspension Control Unit is. That'll handle the compression damping beautifully. She'll still dive a tad as you've got massive braking power now. Joy
Quick question as I am looking into a set of brake discs for forged Marchesini wheels. Was told the BrakeTech SS AXIS rear floaters (BTD245.1RS AXIS/Cobra SS 245mm) on certain MTS models require a small amount of trimming of the OE ABS sensor ring to provide clearance of the bobbin flange heads. Any feedback appreciated, thanks!
I have just received my Axis Iron discs direct from Braketech and was told by the guy I dealt with by e mail ( excellent service ) exactly the same thing. Not started fitting yet but I am in the same boat and would be keen to hear from anyone that has done it The guy said it "may " need to be done
tbr & nodrog; yeah nodrog that would have been Jeff Gehrs, a top man, spoken to him directly myself. It's a big may if the phonic ring (ABS ring) requires skimming. Mine did not require that, either when mated to the original rims, or the new OZRacing I've had fitted since. Neither back nor front. However, knowing our bikes and how they vary, I wouldn't take it as gospel that the ring wouldn't need skimming. Now, just discussing this with the missus she has jogged my memory and reminded me that my mechanic, by hand, adjusted the ring. I wouldn't use the word bent, just "manipulated". In short though bolted straight on. Also, I recall my mechanic shimming the front *M4 calipers so the disc rotor passes dead centre through the piston channel, if you get my drift. Was about £1 in shims/washers whatever. * As you know I fitted the M4 fronts and the ASTONISHING, amazing, wonder thing: the 84mm forged rear Brembo caliper at the same time as the AXIS Iron beasts of rotors too.
Oh yeah, to update you all on the 'pulsing', "oh my God they're warped" panic of earlier posts... ...Sorted. Just required a good caning, I mean bedding in/mating. Back to where they were at day one. Simply, f*#%ing laugh out loud, click your heels together like Andy Capp, BRILLIANT!!!
Do you know how to remove the 'GunKote' plastic film that is on them? 3 ways. 1) Rotor hone (either from BrakeTech) or Fleabay - not recommended for newbies. You'll hone it's tits off and f$ck it. 2) Install rotors as is and let your current pads scour it off the "swept area" (where the pads actually contact the rotor face). That, however, renders the pads useless after that as they are then contaminated with the GunKote. No biggie as you WILL be installing new Ferodo CP1 pads...won't you???? )). You answer yes. 3) Buy 80grain (green) sanding pad/little soft brick with the foam in the middle and scour it off by hand on the dining room table as I did, leaving about 7mm of the GunKote on the inner-most part of the rotor near the floater buttons. You'll go through 2 of these pads for the whole set of rotors, so stock up with 4. Now, some may say this remaining GunKote will prevent the rust that you ARE going to get on your marvellous Iron rotors, will not occur on that inner bit you've left with the GunKote. That is 100% bollocks. The GunKote 'cooks' off eventually with heat and weather anyway..so, they rust all over. Just like they should. Now, these beasts will, literally, I shit you not, rust before your very eyes in certain conditions. Like washing the bike after a ride. Or even not after a ride depending upon what washing product you use. Iron+air+water=rust. Makes no difference. They sweep clean in a jiffy with a cycle of brake/pad sweep/application They WILL stick the pads to the rotors after a good mullering and a little moisture when you park her up. A good roll back and forth 'clicks' them free and leaves a nice tattoo of your brake pad face on the rotor. That scrubs off too upon the next use with no harm at all. From cold/setting off, these rotors WILL seem fairly 'dead', dull, not strong. They love warmth/heat. 2 small applications, 2 moderate squeezes and then a bloody good let's see if I can stoppie it squeeze - then your in freakin' business old son. All done in 30secs.
Thanks for the feedback about fitment, most probably getting a set for the forged Marchesini rims sitting in my office. Mate, just did a copy - paste job out of the BT email reply that from a bloke named Jeff....
