Have you tried holding the key next to the antenna at the base of the screen? The antenna loop can activate the key in the same way it used to on the earlier bikes. Move it around a little and try a few times as it can be a bit hit and miss.. It needs to be in just the right spot.
still no joy, I have 12.7 v at the solenoid so I have power. I still haven't took the switchgear apart yet - family stuff. I am in paignton devon
Oh dear, bit of a dearth of experts in Devon... Did try suggesting to @Derek that he might want to move to somewhere warmer but he wasn't having it lol. Btw, if Nelly suggests something is worth a try, it really is worth a try
I like the cold up here. It was -5ºC all day yesterday but it's reached a balmy 4ºC today. Doesn't do much for the riding season though @Spinup. When the red switch is flipped up, 12V on pin 5 (red) should connect to pin 8 (light blue), enabling the hands free unit.
Brrrr Must be some kind of appeal about the way the sporran modifies the airflow under the kilt or something...
thanks for the info Derek, I opened up the switch, all the connections looked good but no power feed that I could find to any of the wires.which connector were you referring to in your post above, also is there an easy way of removing the tank without having to take all the panels, beak etc off first so I can get to the connector blocks under the tank?
thanks for the info Derek, I opened up the switch, all the connections looked good but no power feed that I could find to any of the wires.which connector were you referring to in your post above, also is there an easy way of removing the tank without having to take all the panels, beak etc off first so I can get to the connector blocks under the tank? View attachment 107242 View attachment 107242 View attachment 107242 View attachment 107243
Sorry, I don't know of any way of lifting the tank without removing the beak and all the panels. This picture from the wiring diagram might help you. 1 is the RH switch,2 is the antenna, 3 is the handsfree relay and 4 is the handsfree unit. Pins 5 and 8 of the connector (under the tank) are what I was referring to. The are one of the two pairs red/white and red/black wires in the switch, going to the "Unlock" contacts. The red wire should be permanently live and comes straight from the main 30A fuse at the starter solenoid.
I don't think the blackening is an issue, they seem to be well soldered to the board but some of the contacts look to be a bit pitted. A clean with a small brass or glass fibre brush might be worth while.
we have these at work, I will try with these but am concerned that there are no active voltages - just GND or open circuit from what I can see
When you put the bike away and you put the battery charger on it did you leave battery all connected or remove the terminals ? You say you have 12. something volts with your meter ...but will the battery power say a halogen bulb ....lets not confuse a voltage reading with a battery’s ability to have amps behind it Ok you say there is no powers at the handle bar switch you can find ...... The under seat fuse box .....have all them fuses got a live on them? , that fuse box and front fuse box is fed from the starter solenoid solenoid fuse the 30 amp one under the plastic cover of the solenoid You say you checked the solenoid and it had live on it , which wire on at the solenoid did you check ? Was it one of the heavy wires that comes from the battery? The multiplug connector that goes into the starter solenoid will have 4 wires on it , 2 of them wires are for the starter solenoid and the other two will have permanent lives on them that supply fuse boxes and other things . Dip all 4 of them wires and see if two have battery live .....in fact be careful here as the starter solenoid could have a live and be switched via an earth pathway ...so unplug that 4 wire connector from the solenoid and dip the 4 pins ...2 should be live , if not make sure that 30 amp fuse is good I always do electrical testing of battery lives with a bulb type test light , not led types ....LEDs will light off hardly any current ....same as a volt meter , using a bulb test light pulls a little bit more out of the circuit a shows a better picture . Have a go at all this then get back to us
