My Garage, Repair Or Replace

I can't recall exactly what the cost of mine was..........I think around £800 including the slates etc.

I needed to do more than the OP would, because I had a small shed (12 x 7) already in place with a reasonable studwork structure but too low and the roof was crap plus the boarding was worse than the OP's.

So I laid another slab alongside the old one, and then raised a new studwork frame on that at a new roof profile......I then clad the roof with ply and lots of plastic sheet, plywood sheathed the outside and boarded it, stopping against the old shed. I made the window frames and fitted them, but didn't glaze them straight away.

Up until then, I had kept everything in the old shed; and then I moved it all into the new one, having busted a hole through the side of the old one.

I ripped the old roof off, then added to and extended the old studwork height to the new roof profile, clad it in plywood and plastic sheeted it.......

Ripped the old boarding off and used ply and new boarding again.....You can see some boarding joint covers up the front where the two buidlings joined.

Ripped the plastic off the roof on one pitch only and laid the Tyvek, then battened it and slated it nearly up to the ridge; then did the other pitch, finally fitting the ridge tiles.

I did fit the fascia boards before I fitted the roofing ply, though..........

 

Now we can see it then provided you're not wanting to park a car in it I'd do as Aquebus says and renovate what you've got. At present your timber structure is too close to the ground. Ideally it ought to be 6" above surrounding ground level and sitting on DPC. If not splash back from rain striking the ground means that the base rarely dries out and it rots. Aquebus's is built on a course of brick, Probably two courses, I'm guessing, with the first course of feather edge boarding dropped low to form a protective skirt.
You wouldn't have to raise the floor or the access height, just get the timber superstructure 6" off the deck. It looks like a dismantle and re-fit job. I expect its a sectional building that comes apart easily. In which case run a couple of brick course round first, lay some DPC and reassemble the timber frame on top. (Class B engineering bricks. Cheapest, toughest and least absorbent) The doors could stay though they'd need extending at the bottom by the height of the bricks. Do you need doors that wide for a bike garage?
Just re-fitting the shed, getting it off the ground and making it properly weather tight will make a huge difference to the climate and moisture levels inside. By the time you've done that the weather will be warming up. You could always add insulation to the inside in time for next winter when funds have recovered .

 

Because of the mucking around between the two bits (old and new) it took a lot longer than I would have taken on yours. Besides, mine is 'L' shaped inside and I had to make up a beam to support the roof where there was no wall across the 'L'......This is because there is another area partly open to the air round the back for log storage.

So, I'm guessing, but I reckon if you are handy with a hammer, electric drill/screwdriver, handsaw and a chopsaw, you could do a wall a day. The roof should be done first though, so at another guess, getting the roof stripped and plywood laid (plus a huge area of plastic to protect the ply while you are getting ready to batten it) probably two days.

I did all mine myself, no assistance............but hell, look at those corners on the boarding:Smug:.......they did take some time, but there are easier ways than that.

I didn't spot the relationship between your slab and the ground level...........if it is say 4" above ground you will be OK......

Depending on how the structure is fixed to the slab you could probably slide some 4" dpc between the sole plate and the slab, having first painted the edge of the slab with bitumen.

Then if you kick the bottom board out (like mine shows) rain will keep away from the slab apart from splashes.

 

Get heavy duty 'proper' roofing felt, not shed felt - it lasted fine on my house porch and garage until I removed it when extending the house last year and it was built in 1971 so 42 years and showed no sign of the slightest leak when removed.

 

If youre doing it all yourself and aren't up to using torchon felt, get a heavy duty under felt and lay it across the ridge and over lap by at lest 6 inches. Tack it down with felt nails. Use a cap sheet (mineral felt with slate chip finish) over the top running the other way. Tack that down also and if you want to go belt and braces, get tanalised tiling battens and stitch them across the roof to stop the felt boucing with windlift.

You'll probably find that cures the floor as it looks like it'll be the roof that makes it damp. If its not, come back to me, there are a number of DPMs That are available, pretty simple, but best left to the better weather. They can be finished with a coating.

 

is that the 848 version of a 'garage'?

 

You could repair that shed for under £200, easy.

 

just kidding.....

well its kinda the same shape as a proper garage but made out of cheaper materials........still i bet if a brick garage overtook you down the wickes isle it would catch up again at the twisty till bits.....

 

Get some of these put on for a neater look, a bit pricey but last forever.

 

There's also this option for the roof:
Lightweight Roof Tiles from the leading roofing manufacturer of lightweight roofing
They're the type of imitation tiles fitted to mobile homes. They're made from pressed and textured aluminium and they fix just like conventional roof tiles except they're nailed to the lower edge of the batten with the sheet above covering the nail heads, rather than hanging on the upper edge like conventional roof tiles. The battens need to be laid very precisely but otherwise they're easy to fit, lightweight, completely weather proof, pretty much everlasting and look reasonably authentic. They don't really "weather", though, they stay looking a bit van-park but they're a zero maintenance, cost-effective solution for lightweight buildings.
Mobile home roof sections are covered with ply which is counter-battened (thin battens laid up the roof slope directly over the rafters) then covered in breather membrane and cross battened in the conventional way to provide a vent gap to let the roof boards breath.

 

Fibreglass it. It'll never leak again.

 

Pointless doing anything to the roof unless the walls are dealt with as well.........

There is no moisture barrier behind the boarding, so the rain will soak into the boards and come out on the inside as damp leading to vapour........that's one of the main reasons it is damp and he is getting condensation.

Tar paper is an absolute minimum behind the boards.......

I have my doubts even if the outside was given a really good coating of a suitable waterproofer it would stop the damp, but it may be worth trying.

He could try lining the inside right across the inner face of the studs with a moisture barrier, but it will lead to the studs rotting eventually.

When something has been badly constructed, IMO it is a waste of money trying to bodge a solution and it is better to get it back to a reasonable point so it can be re-built correctly (even it means starting all over again).

 

Never use OSB anywhere it may get wet.
USE Non chinese hardwood WPB, it's worth the extra.
Careful of splinters, nasty.
Make a shed roof like a flat roof and it will last longer than you.
Layer one Paper with galv nails.
Then torch on intermediate layer,
Then torch on top layer.
Job done.
Never nail on felt, you are wasting your time, especially on OSB.

Google "laying flat roof"

Gutters are vital, but you'll need the appropriate hangers.
Don't short cut this.

Advice from a man with many sheds.
I still have mine from when I was 13 years old....not "triggers broom", the whole shed.
Moved five times, so five times the roof (apex) has been done, but it never showed any signs of wear.