My bet was on the same as Jon Wright said, until you mentioned that holding it still for a few seconds means it works properly. It's almost as if there's air in the damper that's moving around, but I'm not sure how it can be staying there if you've bounced them a few times. I always manually move then damper rod up and down at least 20 times to purge any air after adding the Oil to the fork but before measuring the gap. Obviously you have to be careful not to get a Fork oil shower as it spurts out the top of the rod.
Have a look at this: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TzZdQEpYFNFCIGxqRiligdwARz0OHfyP/view?usp=sharing Tony
Hi Tony, yes, video works fine now. I have not seen that before. Odd with the bang at 0:13 as it releases. Simon (@Nasher ) might have experienced it and have more specific advice than I can offer on this one. I was thinking maybe the top of the damper rod was not screwed fully against the top adjusting valve but had been locked up by the locking nut with a gap, so the initial movement was refilling the space with oil, but doubt that would give that noise. Did you strip absolutely everything out of the fork and reassemble or a partial strip to install seals and guides and pumped penetrating oil / shock fluid through the shim stacks to clean them? Just wondering if someone previously had had them apart and not reinstalled the bottom shim stack assembly properly, and you may spot a difference between this and the other fork leg. Short of other suggestions, it might be another full strip down I’m afraid.
Fork leg stripped again and the compression and rebound stacks removed from the damper rod. I haven't taken the other suspension leg apart to compare, but it seems like there should be a wavy washer supporting the shim in the picture and all that's left is half of it. Could this be the cause of the jump before the rebound damping takes affect? To be honest I was expecting a loose nut or something... The broken piece was behind the shim where the screwdriver is in the last pic.
OK, finally an update..... After extensive searching I could not find any wavy washers of sufficient 'thinness' to give the light load required to just support the shim and allow it to move under oil flow. The broken part of the springy bit that remained measured ~ 0.02mm thick. I ended up opening an account with a German engineering company owned by Misumi in Japan. I ordered stainless steel shim washers 8mm id, 12mm o/d and 0.01mm thick - I had to buy thirty! They arrived this morning and after some experimentation I formed my own 'wavy' washers by gently folding them in half 90 degrees apart so there are four contact points. I stacked three of these on top of each other and the result is as close to the original arrangement as I think I will ever get https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zBsChgCw83IWjYb4Sn6pc3fCUc3sYKTu/view?usp=sharing
So after twelve months we have a running motorcycle a few small things to do and then the fairing parts can go back on.
Very nice, It must be a pleasure to work on the bike with a view like that out the window. Where did you get the oil cooler hoses.
