Ok, soon I'll give up. . Check this video out: Why am I able to push the chain onto the exhaust at some parts when turning the wheel? Also it is not always the same "spot" on the chain since I looked where the chainlock were. I'm seriously considering to leave the bike to a workshop but that would be a real hit to my self-confidence... I know that this could happend if the chain was old and stretched at some links but as I said its not always on the same spot...
Re read the instructions on the swing arm sticker and readjust chain, on side stand or paddock stand the chain should not hit the exhaust , mine has the same squeak before and after I changed the chain, mines a track bike and the noise has never caused my any concern.
Ok! great to hear! The other concern regarding the chain was that it has more "slack" in some positions and in some it doesnt.
Ok, redid it again tonight but same thing. Different slack on the chain depending on how much i’ve turned the wheel. Is this normal behaivour? I mean, the chain is new (also the sprockets) and is has been driven for like 20km
I read now that this could be pretty normal on a o-ring chain and also that I should measure from the tightest spot. Any comments on that? Also since I changed the rear sprocket I’m going to loose it and retighten it again. This guy seemed to have the same problem: https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=327622
Did all that today with no luck, same uneven tighness. It doesnt seem to be the chain tho, because if I put a mark (like 3 o clock, on the rearsprocket when the chain is tight and then turn the wheel one time it will be tight when the mark on the sprocket is on the same place again.
Yes, could be. Some updates: Yesterday I did some deeper investigation. I put a pen against the swingarm and then held it against the sprocket and then turned the wheel drawing a circle on it. Then I also marked the tightest spot (T) and the slackest spot(S) on the sprocket at 2 o clock. It always comes back to the same, when S is standing at 2 o clock it will be slack and when T is doing it it is tight (it can be the same place on the chain which was slack at first so shouldnt be the chain). Then I removed the wheel and moved the cushhub halft a turn (with the sprocket unchanged in it) and it still is tight where the T spot is and vice versa. Took the wheel of again and moved the cushhub to the "starting" position again and then removed the sprocket and moved it two holes and then put everything back on the bike. Same again. S is where the chain is slack and T is where it is tight. Removed the chain and measured from the swingarm to the "U" in the sprocket and it differs by almost 1mm from the tightest place to the slackest place. So it seems to be the sprocket that is causing the problem. I've bought the sprockets (AFAM) and the chain (DID) from a store on ebay uk. I'm going to put back the old sprocket that I have tonight just to see if the difference is gonna be smaller between tightest and slackest spot. (I also did this yesterday but was really too tired then) Do you think that ~1mm is too much? I know when you adjust the chain 1mm does pretty much. Or do you think that it will wear down? so I just should measure from the tightest spot? (the difference from the slackest place to the tightest is about 7mm). Thanks in advance //P
But Wouldnt the slack be different then when I change the position of the sprocket? since if the axle was bent it would occur on diffrent places than marked on the rear sprocket? (or do you mean the rear axle?)
Yeah I've read that too but still isn't the gap of near 7mm a little too much for a chain and sprockets that has been riding for 20km? (ie. brand new)
No idea on what the tolerances are out the box, but it doesn't sound ideal. Mail DID and ask them what their tolerances are. As above, try putting the old sprockets back on and see what that does. You could measure the distance between the links, say every 20 links is X mm, then move on 5 links from the start link and measure the next 20 links. Keep going till you do the whole chain and keep a record/chart. That will give an indication if there is a longer or shorter area of the chain. Haynes manual states that how you judge chain stretch to see if it needs replacing. In an ideal world you want your sprocket teeth to land on a different link every revolution. You can use https://www.gearingcommander.com/ to work out how often this happens. This is the section you need, read the "help" parts.
True, but regarding my previous tests would those say that it should be the sprocket and not the chain since if I put a color spot on one section that is tight it can be loose next time which should mean that it is not the chain, right?
Thinking about it, your chain shouldn't be on the same tooth every circuit, a bit like a timing belts marks don't line up again once the engine is turned. If its always tight at the same spot of the chain, its the chain. If its always tight at the same sprocket position, it's the the sprocket. Possibly......
