Well that didn't help any. Mine says "10.989" just about under the nut retaining the pivot and "1" next to the banjo outlet. I'm pretty sure it is a 16mm though with the unobtainium seals.
btw pistons are not supposed to move evenly in the caliper if there is no load... i took the calipers apart and they were completely perfect, nothing preventing the pistons from moving
Just to add another complication, are the discs on this model supposed to be fixed or semi-floating? If semi-floating and seized, they will need to be freed before they will work properly. Also, KTM dealers are a much better source for Brembo brake parts than Ducati dealers, as KTM, allegedly, were willing to agree to a disclaimer and Ducati were not.
no idea what discs this has, the right disc is still heating up slightly, but there is nothing wrong with the calipers so idk.
Are the discs solidly mounted on the carriers or are there stainless buttons that allow some movement so the discs can align themselves with the callipers? The buttons have a tendency to seize up over time with brake dust. If seized, they can be freed up with something like kitchen spray, that is neither oily or corrosive but will dissolve the muck. A nut and bolt through the buttons will allow you to turn them as you spray.
Old Rider was referring to the bobbins (circled) often times they can seize due to a combination of brake dust and corrosion.
Yes, they are not 'fixed'; they are 'floating', meaning that they should have a small amount of play in them - to allow them to 'float'...
alright, i did it, we will see! also quick question, the brakes feel to have enough pressure when riding, i guess i bled them correctly, when the motorcycle is still the lever comes too far bad IMO, but when riding it's nice and hard
Should be the same amount of total travel regardless. However, it will appear as though you are able to pull the lever back further, ie more travel, when the bike is stationary because you are exerting more pressure than you ever would be able to if the bike were moving without locking the front wheel, skidding and falling off.
i guess it's as good as it gets, i reverse bleed the brakes, so it should be good! thanks for everything. i cleaned the discs so they can move more freerly, i will see on the next ride.
Yes. I kept cleaning mine until they were free enough to give an audible click when moved. Hopefully, when freed, your disc will no longer get so hot.
honestly i did everything, and it still heats up the disc. i guess it's the way it's supposed to be. the semi floating disc is free the pistons move freerly the master fully releases etc
I haven’t got time to read through all the posts but if you’ve turned the “screw that presses on the piston” too far you can cause a dangerous condition where the brakes will go on but not come off when you release the lever!, so turn it back to where it was before and if you have any doubts about the bikes brakes go to a bike mechanic, brakes are not to be worked on if you’re not sure what you are doing. Update; I just watched the video, not sure you’re in danger of having the brake lock on by turning the screw in too far with those levers!, I think they are just not suitable dimensionally, could be air in the system but I’ve got a feeling that they are just not correctly designed, I had an Identical issue with a pattern part brake lever on a Kawasaki I had, it looked very similar to the original brake lever but it would simply not operate the brake without coming all the way back to the bars no matter how I set the adjustments on the lever, I put the original lever back on and the brake worked perfectly, If I were you I’d get some OE levers.
