I do this daily already I was wondering If there was a way to improve on the basics since there are 16 suspension adjustments all in all 4 for each mode. Because we and the roads we are on are not the same. The factory settings are pretty good for basic rider and th basic road not the basic Dakar like roads and conditions I face.
OK, please don't hold me to this to much but here are the settings for Touring and Sport on my Multi. Before this was done I found the bike difficult to turn and very soft at the front, diving a lot under braking. I ideally wanted more weight over the front of the bike to help with the steering. The technician also said that the springs Ducati (rather than Ohlins) specify are not ideal being too soft before you start. This means that you are already using up the subtle movement of the springs straight away because you have to wind up the pre-loads, especially on the front. I weigh just over 13 stone (185lbs - 84 kgs) Preload on front 13 turns (no idea from where but I assume fully off), the notes say standard is 12 with a range of 15.5. Static sag (no rider) Front 39 Rear 21 Sag with rider Front 59 Rear 54 (I have to say these measurements feel counter intuitive to me as I would expect them to be lower with the rider, perhaps they should be reversed?) Touring Front - Comp 20, Reb 14 Rear - Comp 17, Reb 27 Preload (rear) 14 Sport ront - Comp 12, Reb 14 Rear - Comp 12, Reb 12 Preload (rear) 15 My seat of the pants reaction to this is that the bike is much more stable, turns faster, dives less and doesn't 'jitter' over small ripples in the road The Sport setting feels very similar just more 'tensed' up. I hope this helps. I've left the urban alone and set the Enduro to almost the same settings as touring (just a little softer all round) sand turned the DTC up higher to use as a wet mode.
Front sag - take measurement as indicated in diagram for.... 1) Raise front of bike until suspension tops out 2) Bike in an upright position (i.e. not on stand) unladen 3) As for (2) but with rider + riding gear CARE: Work the suspension several times between measurements to ensure natural resting position found. (1) - (2) = Static Sag (1) - (3) = Laden Sag Rear sag - exactly the same but take measurments from the axle to a fixed point on the frame or bodywork directly above. I don't think this applies to dual purpose type bikes i.e. with longer suspension and softer springs and I wonder what effect the different rider modes have on this? That said I guess the balance between front and rear sag would still be important.
i,m sorry but i find all this very confusing. i also find most of the talk a complete load of bollocks. or maybe, just maybe i,m on the wrong site here. is this realy the GP gods site ?? you all ride your bikes to the limit where slight suspension settings make such a difference, what ! get over it...
I'll try this as soon as possible the pikes peak team made extensive modification. This immensely helps bro. What kind of roads do you ride on? Asphalt or cement? Also the pre load settings yo have in the front how many clicks in yours? left to right or the way around? Just need this final info to be really on top of things.
Thanks Andy, Twin - for from pre load how many clicks in the blue at the top to the-left or right? What kind of roads are you on usually? Asphalt or Cement.
Diver - like I say I don't know what the preload clicks relate to as I was not in the workshop at this point, I'm just reporting what was recorded on the worksheet. I ride on normal UK roads, asphalt with pot holes! Garry - likewise I also find it confusing which is why I spent a small amount of money getting somebody who really knows what they are doing to set it up. I'm no MotoGP god, but the even I can feel how much better the bike rides (for me) after this.
Like Twin said above you don't need to be a GP God to benefit from properly set up suspension and it's surprising how much difference a little change in setup can make. "i also find most of the talk a complete load of bollocks" - what's your experience/expertise, please put us right where the 'bollocks' has been talked ;-) By the way, do you have an MTS12? (no bike details in your profile ;-) Twin, thanks for sharing your settings :niceone: It occurs to me that when anyone posts their settings, rider weight is crucial obviously but also mention if your bike has been de-catted, that's about a stone less the bike is carrying! :-O
New Springs Sorry to throw another spanner into the mix, Has anyone upgraded both the front and rear? Few mentioned fitting the upgraded rear but I haven’t seen any mention of the front. I’m booking into Kais at Atherton next week for both to be done as my Weight 16.5 St and the Mrs 12 Stone + Luggage to Italy later this year will warrant it.
i asked the same question to the ohlins man who did my 999R.. he replied woth more questions: how do you want to a suspension that was designed for a tiny italian ( 75kg all wet) to cope with 2 up + 35 kgs luggage. 2 up of which one already weighs almost double that.. How many springs are there? when changing balance (braking or cutting throtle) where does all the weigth go to ( front or rear?) good questions, no?
FYI : got feedback from Ohlins guy : Today, there are no uopgrades for stiffer springs for the front Electronic Ohlins.. apparantly , it takes a special 'mount' to fix the engines that adapt the suspension to the spring. There is no date set to when they will be available... grtz Koen
Koen, Interesting what Ohlins said to you? I Spoke to Kais Monday an official UK OHLINS centre who confirmed front and rear springs to be fitted on my 1200S I have to confirm date tommorow so will check again and report back Andy
Spoke to Kais they have the front springs which is listed in stock! Booked in Monday so will update once fitted
