drip tray courtesy of local shop that sells anything and everything at fair cheap prices if i remember it original purpose was as a planter tray for the garden think it cost something like a couple of pounds but dam useful as for the paving slabs well doesnt matter what i do always seem to make a bit of mess lol
Had the same problem once on the 749, ended up ripping the outer casing off until just the base plate of the filter was left in place, got some bloody great long nose pliers, opened them up and put them in opposing holes in the base, then a very large ring spanner on one handle of the pliers and twisted it off, worked a traet but took a while, why do people do them up so tight !! Glad you got it sorted
Hi guys. I'm new to this forum. Residing in Canada, and loving my Ducati 848! A trick I discovered while dealing with a tight filter was....... To flip a sanding belt inside out and slip it over the filter, then use it as a wrench. Works every time. The sanding grit , grips the filter very well and the width of the belt won't crush the filter like a belt wrench. Just thought I would share..... P.S. Yes I also had to over tighten my filter to stop it from dripping.
Ah.........this is more for removing a tight filter?!? I recommend spinning the filter on by hand first!?
Time doesnt make it any easier. Found this thread and I guess it sot of helps to know It’s not just me.. It’s NOtT a Ducati OE filter seems to be 112 flats on it Bought a cup tool....... slipped off Tried metal strap wrench (with and without rough emery cloth)... slipped and when i tightened the wrench the metal strap broke Tried the screwdriver driven through bottom (only bit you can get to!!) ,,, ripped great holes Ripped bottom off and pulled out interior components Tried the needle pliers and lever bar method.. broke the pliers!! Have made a special tool to engage in the holes in the end plate (well 2 of them anyway) but still cant shift it.... What a total pile of shit!! Will revisit the special tool ans see if i can improve it. (NB a company is USA actually makes a tool that engages with the six holes in the end plate just or this situation. If they were in UK I would pay for one just to get out of this crap situation). Whoever designed this should be taken out and whipped to death!!
I had this problem with my Monster engine when I first got it. No way would the filter come out and a screwdriver through the side just ripped it. I made a tool from a few bolts & washers, had to weld the main bolt in as trying to undo the filter undid the bolt but it worked great.
Yes I’m trying to do something similar with limited resources! Doesn’t help that the holes on the base plate with my filter (non OEM) are at different spacing to the OEM version. Have just spent a morning with a strip f metal trying different hole spacing to come up with what looks right. (40mm Vs i think 36 on the OE filter). Doesn’t help that engine is still in the bike and access is the 8 inches to the garage floor. And there was me thinking... lets just give it an oil change before it is put away for the winter!
You need one of these, 3/8" drive, the more force you apply to a ratchet the tighter the fingers grip. These spin-on, hand tight, filters are often over-tightened & I have never failed to get an oil filter off with this. Don't be tempted to go for this cheaper version, they're crap ! There is no need to use a torque wrench to tighten one of these spin-on filters, hand tight is plenty tight enough !
Replace with bolt type filter. I use K&N. Usual smear oil on seal with index pinky, spin on and use a torque wrench. Wall thickness on filters has definitely become lighter over the last few years.
Thanks for the suggestions and the one that worked i'll get to. The main problem with the 900ss (and I guess early Monster) oil filter is that its recessed into the bottom of the crankcases. This means that at most there is about 15-20mm of the side of the filter showing when it i screwed in and in fact a lot less in parts as the bottom of the engine case is actually sloping towards the centere from the RHS. In practice this means that about the only tools which will fit on to undo is either a cup type wrench or a metal strap wrench. There just isnt enough exposed filter I think to use one of the self tightening 'finger' type wrenches, maybe if I had tried right at the beginning with a 'pristine' filter, but I'm sceptical. In my case both the cap and strap tools failed and I was left to butcher the case with a screwdriver but as you can only drive it in near the end of the filter I' m afraid that all that did was rip the end off the filter. I then proceeded with pliers/molegrips to rip out the remaining guts , exposing the bottom of the filter casing ....no way back now!! I then took a lead from Dukedesmo's post and made up a tool to engage with the holes in the filter base. I used M5 bolts as my 'pegs' (M6 were just a tad too close a fit and left no leeway when trying to engage both pegs) and welded a spare nut to a redundant brake pad adjuster plate I had in the toolbox. As my engine is in the bike it still took 15 minutes of grappling, but eventually to my extreme relief the filter moved' and once it was about a quarter turn loose it just span off clean as you like. One thing I did note was that although both Ducati OE filters the final extensions on the part nos were different , the old one being 04 and the new one 08. Note that the hole spacing in the base is different At least should I ever need to do this again (God forbid!) there is room for a couple of more hole settings on my tool.
I normally only use K&N oil filters for years......but I did have two OEM filters on the SS which leaked badly. Their fitting instructions in the box may vary from which vehicle they are fitted to, but it is usally something like slightly wet the seal face with oil, fill the filter, spin the filter on until the seal touches the casting face, then use a spanner / socket to tighten a further half turn.
I'd agree - always done it like that, but my new Ducati filter (the new part no) has a tightening torque on the box & the aforementioned oiling of the seal as one would expect... Don't have it to hand but it's 11 or 14Nm from memory. Can confirm if anyone wants to know.
OE filters always used to ha a tightening torqu of 11Nm printed on the canister body, don't know if this is still the case as I bought a quantity some years back to get a better price and not needed to buy any recently.
FWIW the workshop manual for an 1198 says 11Nm) min 19, max 12), plus to smear the rubber O-ring with clean engine oil before installation (I generally fill the filter with oil as well).
