Sando999 hi My 999 being a 2005 model has the 5AM ECU not the 59M. Both my 1000SS and M1000 do have the 59M ECU and I've now managed to connect to the 1000SS again. I'm going to try the M1000 again as well. I'm convinced now it comes down to versions of Windows, Drivers for the cables being used, and more than anything pot luck.
Earlier this evening I started the bike and warmed it up for a few minutes. My home 'Cored' exhaust really is sounding nice by the way. I pulled the clutch on and off a few times, put it in and out of gear, and spun the back wheel up enough to register a few MPH both with the engine running and just with the ignition on. I then went back in to the ECU via JPDiag DTC and was greeted with that magnificent message - Aucun défaut enregistré For those who can't be bothered to Google translate it - No recorded faults Fantastic.
Now can you get into the language settings and get it out of French? (Seriously well done, by the way!!)
Thanks all I've only seen the language setting when installing it for the first time, but I did that and almost everything else is in English. I don't actually mind some of it being in French, I understand enough to get me by.
Talk to me about Chains and Sprockets. I believe the standard set up for a Black swingarm 999 is: 96(???) link 525 Chain 15T Front Sprocket 36T Rear Sprocket I'm thinking of going to a 15/39T combination as a lot appear to recommend, but am not sure about the chain length. Will I need to go for a 98 Link chain instead of 96? Thanks
Can use this calculator to find the correct length. https://www.gearingcommander.com/ Pretty sure the new chain length is 98 links. It's quite some time since I've used it but unless my memory of how to read the results are wrong my calculations the difference from the stock length with 15T/36T and 96 link to 15T/39T with 98 links is 3.22mm. Have 15T/39T myself but haven't been able to make much use of it yet as my bike has been stationary since the switch. Have ran both 36T and 42T in the past and while 42T was an improvement I felt it went to far from stock. 39T has felt good on my test rides around the block but that's about it so you'll probably be better off getting other peoples experiences of it in use.
I asked this question a few weeks ago and it got lost in the rest of the thread. I had the chance a couple of days ago to play with a MkI upper side panel to see how it fits with MkII panels. I can confirm the MkI upper side panel will bolt directly to the Lower MkII side panel, but as the 'blades' for the MkI and MkII are completely different there really isn't a lot of point in doing so unless you wanted to go to the effort of making one-off hybrid blades. My main point of interest was if the MkI upper side panel would fit the MkII nose cone. They do fit together, the mounting points are exactly the same, however there is @1/4" gap between the two panels, which is bad enough not to enable mixing and matching MkI and MkII panels.
Now I've got the silencer sorted I thought I'd clean and fit all the stuff that bolts to it's underside. It looks a bit odd to me that the numberplate light in the main rear light housing is blanked off on the 749/999 and a separate light is added lower down. I wanted to raise the numberplate a little, but retain a factory look. The 749/999 shares it's rear light moulding with the Multistrada 1000, which doesn't use a separate numberplate light, so I thought it must be really easy to swap and change a few parts around. I found I couldn't swap the bulb holders from the separate light unit into the main housing, but as there were slots there I did manage to bend up some contacts from some old blade contacts I had hanging around: And then used the clear lens from the separate unit in place of the blanking plate originally installed in the main housing:
I wanted to move the Numberplate up a bit and the old plastic mount was broken anyway: But as I rather like the original stainless hanger I wanted to reuse it, so started with a flat sheet of 1.5mm Aluminium to make a replacement for the plastic mount with the holes in a different place: Cut to shape with the edges turned over for rigidity and dimples hammered in for dome head screws it fits quite nicely: And with a little paint positions the plate right where I wanted it: Unless you look closely it looks standard, but I think looks better. My next step is to replace the tail light reflector etc with LEDs.
Thanks Sev, I looked at that. I realised the separate light was a little further forward, but my aluminium bracket makes up for some of that by being significantly thinner overall than the original Plastic one. When I replace all the guts of the rear light with LEDs I plan to position the downward facing white ones slightly further 'out' to help, and of course they will be significantly brighter.
I couldn't stand looking at these awful Front Brake and Clutch reservoirs any more: Considering the difference just 15 minutes made with a stainless Wire brush, a rattle can of primer and another of Matt Black, I should have done it ages ago. It also helps having a huge stash of assorted Stainless screws and bolts hanging around. It's often the little wins that stare you in the face afterwards that keep the enthusiasm going on a project:
The special screws holding the Air tubes and Air filters to the Airbox were not only very rusty, but nearly all had quite badly rounded out Allen sockets. So I spent an hour at my Lathe today making up a couple of sets of these replacements using M5 Stainless Allen Cap head screws and Aluminium round stock. They shouldn't rust or round out:
Regarding the number plate light I started hacking into a 999 tail light I got from Ebay to get the illumination from the tail light itself. Recycling the clear lense to slot into a chunk out of the red lense and then patch up the hole. Some Japanese bikes have this - my FZR years ago had this and my ZX9R does it like that too.
