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Project 999

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by Nasher, Sep 13, 2021.

  1. Having not had any luck(yet) with sourcing a replacement Left hand side mirror assembly, or even just the body, I've started to rebuild the original.

    Over the years I've found that for items like this, and of course ABS fairing panels, there are only 3 adhesive products that work and are readily available without resorting to expensive specialist products mail order.
    Most Superglues and epoxies just don't work on most plastics particularly Moulded ABS.

    P1170005.JPG

    Note for all of the above the plastic part has to have all surface finishes removed such as paint.
    I scrape back to bare plastic with a scalpel, then sand to a rough finish.
    Then really importantly, clean down the area to be glued with Acetone just before gluing.
    It melts the surface of the ABS for long enough to enhance the bond between the surface and the adhesive.

    First of all Gorilla GEL Superglue.
    The Gel version is formulated differently to other Superglues, even the normal Gorilla Superglue, and sticks ABS and other plastics really well.
    I came across this stuff via a comparison test by a boating magazine I read.
    It performed much better than other more specific plastic adhesives despite being significantly cheaper and available in Halfords, Tesco etc.
    I've used it a lot, and can't recommend enough that everyone has a bottle in the cupboard.
    In October lady Nasher and I had a week walking on Bodmin moor.
    On the second day the sole separated from one of my walking boots.
    As I always have a bottle of this in the car I glued the sole back on, left it weighted down overnight and not only did it stay attached for the rest of the weeks walking, but is still going strong having been used every day to walk the dog since.

    The Gorilla Glue 2 part Epoxy is just as good on Plastics, but has a lot of gap filling qualities.
    It sticks ABS etc really well with the above preparation, and can be used to form a fillet around a broken lug etc.
    It's available in Halfords amongst other places.
    But, it's difficult to squeeze out equal quantities and is quite runny when first mixed so needs care to use.
    It's supposed to cure in 5 minutes, but in current temperatures in my garage takes @1/2hr

    Good old Araldite works just as well as on ABS once the prep has been done and is easier to use.
    It's thicker when mixed, is easier to squeeze out, and cures a bit quicker in cold temperature.
    It's also available in Halfords etc.

    However, I've found that if building up several layers of epoxy, the above two products appear to adhere to each other better than they do to an already cured layer of themselves, so I use both in turn.
     
    #241 Nasher, Jan 17, 2022
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2022
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  2. Stage one was to turn up a Brass threaded tube to replace the broken away mounting boss and superglue it in the correct place to what's left of the body:

    P1140006.JPG

    Then add a first layer of epoxy to lock it in place:

    P1140007.JPG

    Once cured I cut some sheet ABS and epoxied it in place to start reforming the body and add more strength.

    P1170003.JPG

    P1170002.JPG

    P1170001.JPG

    I'm currently leaving it for a couple of days to fully cure before starting with some plastic bumper filler to reform the shape.
     
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  3. Whilst I wait for the Wing mirror to fully cure I've been pondering what to do about a rear end.

    I now have several options.
    The decision isn't helped by not knowing which exhaust I'll end up using.
    The standard one which I've gutted, or a Racefit one I've picked up that needs a load of work.

    Firstly the 'R' style Carbon tailpiece previously mentioned in this thread:

    Carbon R.JPG

    It basically owes me next to nothing, and I've now modified it to fit with the standard Biposto subframe.
    It fits over the standard Exhaust and exhaust cover.
    But needs a lot of work cosmetically and I'm not sure I like the shape.

    Secondly is an RS style Carbon tailpiece I've picked up for next to nothing because again it needs work.
    https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/carbon-tail.89428/

    RS Carbon RF.JPG

    It looks daft over the standard exhaust, but fits nicely over the Racefit.
    Note above it's mocked up only as I'd need to cut and shut a Biposto Subframe to mimic a Monoposto as it won't fit with the Biposto subframe in place.

    The other option is the standard rear panels with an aftermarket single seal 'converter' which fits with both the standard and racefit exhausts:

    Std Std.JPG

    Std RF.JPG

    The 'Converter' needs paint to be good enough to use, and I'd cover the solid plastic Bum Pad in soft Vinyl to mimic a proper one.
    Going this route would give me the option to convert to Biposto really quickly should I see the need, and gives a small key accessible locker for tools.

    I must admit I'm quite liking the proportions, look, and practicality of the last option at the moment, but could be swayed by the Carbon RS one if I go with the Racefit exhaust.

    I'm almost certain to sell on the Carbon 'R' One at the moment to add to the project funds pot.
     
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  4. Should you decide on not using the standard rear seat with converter, I would be interested in purchasing either just the tailpiece without the converter or if you prefer with. :)
     
  5. Noted DucatiScud.
     
  6. RS tail plus Racefit can gets my vote.
     
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  7. RS tail with Racefit exhaust all the way. Convinced me I need an RS tail myself for my Racefit exhaust. :heart_eyes:
     
  8. RS tail and Racefit all day long. Always loved that look, with the can sticking right out...:upyeah:
     
  9. I've not made much actual physical progress on the bike in the last few weeks, other things just appear to have been more important.

    I'm getting along nicely with sourcing a good set of genuine MkII panels in Red with 999 Decals.
    All I really need now is a Lower Left panel, and in reality I could spray the one I have after a lot of rubbing down etc.
    Crucially, I've sourced everything else and am still under £200 in total for the set with no paint costs to have them sprayed.

    I have finished off the Wing Mirrors.

    With the Epoxy having gone off properly and providing a good strong mounting point I could concentrate on making them look good enough to fit.

    Plasticine is useful for lots of things, including making temporary 'Dams' and molds when using filler, and Parcel tape is great for stopping Filler, Epoxy, Fibreglass, and many other things sticking to what you don't want them to stick to:

    P1230001.JPG

    P1230002.JPG

    Then with a coat of etch primer and Satin Black paint the Left hand base is good enough for me to use.

    P2020001.JPG

    P2020002.JPG

    I brought some rattle cans of paint from RS paints and sprayed the Black Covers Red.

    I'm not completely satisfied with them, but the colour matches and I'm sure I'll warm to the finish.
    It was probably still a little cold to paint them in my unheated garage.
    Rubbing them down and repainting them can be a job for a sunny Sunday once the bike is on the road.

    P2020003.JPG
     
    #249 Nasher, Feb 2, 2022
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2022
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  10. I had the bike running for a while on Friday, the intension being to get it properly warmed up for the first time in my ownership, to test the Thermostat, Radiator fans etc.

    However I shut it off after just a few minutes as a small pool of oil had appeared again under the left hand side of the engine.

    It turned out to be the wiring from the alternator windings to the reg/rec - again.
    And yes, despite some people claiming it's impossible this is the second Ducati I've had where the Oil is finding it's way up the wires along the conductor under the insulation and dribbling out of the connector.

    The wires are bone dry at the grommet where the three wires exit the case, and the insulation on the three cables is baggy and loose.
    After just a few minutes the connector block is full of Oil and it's dribbling out onto my bench.
    This is VERY disappointing, as having identified this as an issue before I made a real point when I had the windings out to thoroughly clean and degrease around the wire ends at the windings, removing all the sleeving etc to get rid of all traces of Oil, then put it all back together with lots of sealant around the wire ends and inside the sleeving. It's obviously not worked.

    So, the windings are going to have to come out again, which means dropping the Oil and Coolant again.

    I'm going to give up with these windings and cables, replacing them with new as I'm not happy to try another set of used windings that could either be low on generating power or even have the same Oil leak issue.

    Can anyone recommend a manufacturer of aftermarket windings?
     
  11. What a pain.

    :(
     
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  12. Ugh. The one step forwards, three steps back is such a ball ache.
     
  13. Not thinking of a rewind Sev, that won't sort it out unless whoever does it also replaces the output cables as well.

    Need to investigate my options, but a new unit with decent sealing at the cable ends where they join the windings should sort it.
     
  14. Just thinking out loud, where does the troublesome lead/cable come out of the crank case, above or below static oil level?

    How does the oil get into the wire? If above the static oil level then presumably it's oil splashing around and then the pressure inside the crank case forcing it through? How do these crankcases breathe? Hopefully nothing blocked that is causing increased pressure in the crankcase forcing the oil out?

    Good luck and fingers crossed.......
     
  15. Charles
    Hi
    The breather system appears all clear, I checked it over as I stripped the bike down in the beginning as I was worried about it when I saw Oil leaking from so many places around the engine.

    The end of the cables where they join the Stator Windings are very low inside the engine, although I do find it hard to believe they are below the actual level of the Oil when the engine is running.

    All I can say for sure at this point is that the Oil is coming out of the ends of the three Yellow wires where the Crimps are put on for the connector block.
    The gland where the wires exit the case is bone dry, as are the three cables themselves.
    The Insulation around the three cables is very loose and baggy, especially when warmed by the oil.

    As mentioned this is not the first time I've had this issue with a 90s/2000s Ducati.
    My M900 had exactly the same issue with it's 2 wire system but I cured that with internal sealant.
    There are lots of discussions on other Ducati forums about it, many of which turn heated when somebody refuses to believe it's possible.

    My first experience of it was with a TD5 Discovery, where the injector harness ends are under the rocker cover, and the Oil finds it's way all the way back to the ECU plug, shorting it out and causing all sorts of running issues.
    Land Roved had so many instances of it that they redesigned the harness.

    From a LR Forum:
    ECU oil 1.jpg
     
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  16. What a mess.
    This isn't your superpower is it? To get harnesses to leak oil?
     
  17. Which raises the question how come the designers haven't learnt these things?
     
  18. Final thought, can you do anything to crimp the insulation tight around the conductor core to stop the outward flow of oil?

    (Probably offends your engineering instincts!)
     
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