Thanks all I'm wishing the frame on my bike wasn't Red, otherwise I'd have probably gone down the Yellow route, but I don't want to strip it to a bare frame to get it re-finished. I'm most likely going to stick with Red, but am thinking about Black and maybe a Brushed Aluminium Wrapped Tank instead of painting to match the body. The Wrapped tank would also work with Red bodywork to mask the difference. I don't need the bodywork for a while, so won't order it yet, and will continue to look out for good used genuine bodywork in the mean time.
I had a little time to work on the bike on Friday afternoon, so started stripping it a little more. I stupidly hadn't noticed that the Right Hand upper radiator mount was non-standard: And just as I expected to find the bolt had sheared off. Somebody had already had a go at drilling it out and given up: It took 10 minutes to do it properly by drilling it out oversize and using a Helicoil insert:
The more I take parts off the bike the more I realise just how much oil there is everywhere. I'd seen oil dripping off the bottom of the Right Hand footrest hanger and had seen it appeared to be coming from behind the vertical cylinder belt covers. But when I started to pay more attention to the engine around the front and horizontal cylinder I realised just how much oil there was everywhere. It's not easy to see in the images, but everything is covered, and it's obviously been leaking for quite some time as it's attracted huge amounts of crud and dirt, and it was actually dripping off the bottom of the oil cooler: But there is also oil behind the vertical cylinder belt covers which has been thrown around by the belt: It's pretty obvious when looked at in detail that both Cam cover seals are leaking in a couple of places each, but what's more obvious is that most of the cam cover fixings are leaking on both Vertical and Horizontal cylinders. On the Vertical cylinder they all have a wet pool around them, and on the Horizontal cylinder there is a stream dripping from each one. All are tight and have the special seals underneath which are rubber mounted on a steel washer. I'm wondering if all the seals are the wrong way up, as they are installed steel washer upwards with the flange nuts on the steel washers, which my initial thoughts are is incorrect as it would rely on the steel face of the washer and the bottom of the flange nut both being perfectly flat to achieve a seal.
I've started cleaning a lot of the oil off with my Brake cleaner fluid pump. But working in Aviation electronics I was a little shocked to see the mess and state of everything behind the battery box. Considering the ECU is in here covered by some Silver foil tape I'm surprised the bike ran: Again the image doesn't show just how bad it is. You can just see in the image the Fuel Pump relay that's known to be an issue wrapped up in Black tape and tucked in behind the Reg/Rec Wiring instead of in it's little rubber holder. I was going to relocate it anyway, as suggested by Sev. What can't be seen in the image above is that the wiring had not been put back correctly when the Battery Box was reinstalled, so for example the Left hand Fan wiring was stretched around the edge of the Aluminium heat shield and the insulation on one of the wires had already been worn thought to the conductor. Also, one of the connector Bodies had also been rubbing it's way through the coolant hose, which can be seen in the image, but all the hoses are on my list for replacement. Next job will be to strip all this off the plastic and clean it all up.
To change the Cam cover gaskets I need to make room by removing the Radiator, which I want to do anyway to rub down the corroded sides and give it a lick of new Satin Black paint. I'm assuming to drain the coolant it's just a case of removing the bottom radiator hose and dealing with the mess. Or is there something useful like a proper drain point somewhere in the system? While the system is empty I'll probably whip the coolant pump off and check it over. To clean up the Oil mess properly I'll also need to drain the oil and remove the Oil cooler and lines, but at least I'll be getting all the really messy stuff out the way.
Thanks RickyX, I'll have a look. Yep, the shield is there, held on with three countersunk Stainless self tappers with washers. I'm pleased somebody saw fit to use Stainless screws, but I have some Flange head Stainless self tappers which will be easier to use than the separate washers. The shield is a bit battered, but obviously doesn't need to look too good. Some of the cables were not routed around it well, and at least the LHS Rad Fan wiring will need repairing where it's worn through the insulation back to the conductor. Obviously the whole area is going to need stripping down and cleaning. Daftly I enjoy sorting stuff like this out. It can be done for just the cost of consumables I have in the garage. The time spent is useful in getting to know the bike. And it makes a really satisfying difference when it's done.
As I need to take the Rad off, and at least two of the coolant hoses are damaged, it would be rude not to replace all the hoses with a nice set of Silicone jobbies. Although I'll probably go with Black ones, not the Blue or Red a lot of you are immediately thinking of. So does anyone have any recommendations for a set they've used which fitted well? I'm thinking Samco as I've used hoses from them in the past and they've been good quality. There appears to be two different versions of the 749/999 Radiator, and information online appears to be vague if the design changed at the same time as the fairing etc changes between the MkI and MkII. In reality I suppose the factory used what they had around them at the time the bike was built. My believed to be a MkII 2005 Bike has the one on the Right above. So it looks like I need the kit on the left below.
I have a very effective weapon for difficult to access Hose clips: https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/automotive-tools/laser-hose-clip-driver-6/7mm-696799.html https://www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/2162/Hose-Clip-Driver-6-and-7mm-Heads Probably one of the most useful tools I've ever brought, the flexible shaft works effectively even when bent through more than 45Deg. It's been invaluable on lots of projects and will even take std 1/4" sockets with an adaptor.
A quick shout out to Moore Speed racing. They had the best price on the Samco 999 hose kit I could find from a well known supplier, and having ordered it yesterday lunchtime it's just arrived with the Post Lady. (I'd invite her in for a Coffee whilst I'm working from home, but I suspect she'd be more interested in Mrs Goggins than Pat.) Oh, and I couldn't help myself, it had to be Blue:
Next stupid question. What's this extra backwards facing little bulb for? There is a separate Number plate light, Item 16 below, and from the position of the one shown above, all it's going to do is light up the rear tyre. perhaps it's a nod to 1970's jacked up MkII Cortinas with a light illuminating their Red hammerited rear axle. Not shown here:
This one on EBAY doesn't appear to have it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353595246363?hash=item5253eb471b:g:0UcAAOSwVxphAXVt&LH_ItemCondition=3000 See Image 3.
Chris, you are probably right, perhaps it's been fitted with a aftermarket plate holder at some point. The standard one came with it.
My 'New To Me' replacement Bottom Yoke and Stem just turned up to replace the one on the bike with both Lock Stop Yokes broken off: Just need to figure out why the Vendor took them apart now
At the beginning of this thread I said work wouldn't progress on this bike as I had other things to finish first, so I must try harder not to touch it for a while. However, I made some time yesterday after work and set the steering stem up in my lathe to check it's straight. I'm pleased to say it is, and after cleaning it up it threaded nice and tightly into the yoke. I also managed to remove the corroded in lock stop screw without damaging the thread in the lug. It's not in place permanently yet as I don't want to thread lock it in until I've made some definite decisions on which way I'm going with the whole front end. The front end decision involves either rebuilding the existing Forks and Brakes or swapping them for 848, 1098 radial forks. I'd love to go Ohlins with it, but the cost of a used set would double the rebuild budget. And of course require a different yoke. I know I can get hold of everything else for the 848/1098 conversion except the actual forks, so I just need to make my mind up and look for a set of forks. If anyone has a set please let me know. I have a couple of pairs on my EBAY watchlist but think I can get some at a better price. Incidentally, the Breaker selling a set of 848 forks with very pitted stanchions for £150 when good sets are £350 obviously doesn't realise even Pattern Stanchions are £200ea.
