If the washer is Ferritic, would a small magnet on a flexible bar help retrieve any remaining fragments? Good luck with it. Tom.
A magnet is a good idea, but I have a real aversion to sticking anything inside an engine that could become detached. The last thing I want to do is split the cases because the magnet came off the end of a stick and is now firmly attached to the crankshaft where I can't reach it. Does anyone have a flywheel holding tool I could borrow to tighten the nut up? I'm being lazy and asking before I make one. Has anyone used both of these types and found one to be better than the other? My preference I think is for the Ducati original type shown first, but I can also see the advantages of the second type. I've spent what free time I had today ripping out all the Fluorescent tubes from my Garage/workshop and replacing them with LED battens which I've positioned carefully so I have two of them placed one either side of where my lifting table is. So hopefully the side of the bike that was in shadow previously will now not require a worklamp to see what I'm doing.
Nasher, if you want to do a comparison on the tools I've the laser one (equiv to 88713.2036) you can borrow, it makes taking the flywheel off on your own a doddle. You could use it as a pattern. You will need a new flywheel nut (£12ish) and the belleville washer (£26ish) and some Loctite 270.
Thanks for the offers guys. As well as the replacement shim I've already sourced a new Washer and nut to hold the flywheel etc on, but just need to hold the flywheel to tighten it up to 270Nm. I've also got a new bearing and circlip for the outer cover, plus whilst I have it off I'll replace the gearshift shaft seal whilst it's easy to get to. I am a little surprised actually that the new nut is a loose fit on the crankshaft. It's slit down each flat side like a deformed locking nut, so I thought it would be a slightly tight fit.
On both my 748 and 999 they have been snug/light interference fits which you could not do up without a spanner or socket.
Yep that should happen, and is why it shouldn't be reused, but I'd have thought it would be a little tight to fit first off. That's exactly what's worrying me. This new one is really free to spin on the threads.
If the tightening torque is 270 Nm and it has a belville washer beneath it then I think it extremely unlikely that it will come undone, loctite would be your belt and braces.
I have had a new nut come loose, correctly tightened along with loctite. That was on a 996 I think something changed later as its not such a common problem
Early 748/9*6 had a different way of retaining the flywheel. There was a tricky little thin washer that had to be correctly installed behind the flywheel. It could easily slip off the shoulder on the crank and then the nut would work loose.
That's exactly how it's done on the 999, and the "tricky little thin washer" you mention is the one that was broken up and mangled in the previous images. As you say, keeping it in place behind the flywheel whilst you fit everything in front of it is tricky, and it can drop down and be trapped off centre, clamped in place by the Top-hat bearing carrier rather than providing a good surface for the large starter gear to run against and take up the slack. In the case of my engine, probably because of that difficulty, the company who replaced the starter Sprag clutch for a previous owner had put the Top hat bearing carrier in the wrong way round, and even if the shim/washer was in the right place it didn't stand a chance so broke up, relieved all tension on the nut which then came undone. Considering the incorrect assembly, and the discovery that one of the screws holding the outer cover on was completely stripped and had been glued in with sealant, the £525.06 charged to a previous owner back in 2011 for "starter Solutions" doesn't appear to be much of a bargain!
I swapped the front forks over yesterday, along with replacing the bottom yoke. The old yoke had both steering lock adjusting lugs broken off, and I'd drilled a hole in the bottom of the new one to take an under-headstock paddock stand for when I need to take the front wheel out - see previous posts. I also of course put new Taper Roller headstock bearings in, although I did find somebody at some stage had already replaced the original ball and cups with taper rollers. But it's daft not to replace them whilst it's all in bits. To get the front end out in it's entirety the bike needs to be supported by the frame. So using a couple of Builders trestles I have, and a chunky plank of Timber, I lifted the bike on the table a few inches, strapped it to the timber then lowered the table to release the front wheel from the clamp: All the 'stuff' hanging out between the yokes, including the removed clip-on assemblies was supported out of the way by a rope from the roof: getting the front wheel out was a bit of a nightmare because of the accident damage to the front spindle: But a hammer and punch used to push all the expanded parts inwards into the hollow centre sorted that. And I've replaced it with a 1098 spindle anyway. So the front end is now in, converted to the 1098 Forks secured from Mr Android: I dropped in to see Sev yesterday afternoon and picked up some nice radial calipers along with the Flywheel holding tool he's kindly lending me, so now I need to order some front brake lines and Caliper bolts.
I should add to this that I'm really not impressed with the Cerakote on the forks. The standard Cerakote I've dealt with in the past is hard and robust. This coloured stuff appears to be soft and easlly marked. Despite being really careful with them, more so than I would have been with a standard anodised pair, they are already marked just from handling them with Latex gloves and pushing them through the yokes. I even opened the yokes up with a screwdriver in the slot to help but the slightest touch has marked them. The Forks have been cycled Left-Right probably only a dozen times, and the Throttle cables and Electrical harness have already marked the Left Hand Fork tube between the yokes. I've tried cleaning the mark off with a hand cleaning wipe to see if it was just transferred grime and it hasn't touched it.
(ahem, R.Petty Esq. per chance? believe Marcus and he parted accrimoniously due to this sort of carry on)
Just relooked at my manual - the tricky little washer on the 749/999 is nowhere near as tricky the washer on early 916 etc!
