Project 999

If we're talking about the same thing then both bikes use the same part number. 061950065

Item 17 in both these images:

916


999

 

Got the headlamp assembly and various front end electrical systems built up today.

Whilst I was mucking about with wires I though I might as well plug everything in temporarily to see if it works, and spent quite a while getting the brake lights and indicators to work. Dodgy corroded connectors all round

I'm pleased with the Headlamp bracket I had Powdercoated.

 

I realised the other day that changing the belts was going to need some different tools to those I've been using on my older 900 and 1000 bikes.

The tensioner is 26mm across flats, and can't be worked on with a socket as you need to access the clamp nut at the same time:



I do have a 26mm ring spanner, what Land Rover 'Fiddler' doesn't? But it was hardly engaging on the nut, so I had a great excuse to make a special tool.

I was in B&Q for something else and picked up one of their really cheap, and mostly useless, sockets.
They honestly are very cheap - 26mm - £2.19

The poor unsuspecting thing didn't know what was about to happen to it:





In the Lathe it went, but despite being so cheap it's still hard enough to not risk a tool bit on it that costs @10 times as much.

So, and I really couldn't condone or recommend this, I spun it up in the lathe and cut the business end off with a 1mm slitting disc in my angle grinder:



It then got welded to a length of 10mm Mild steel bar I had hanging around.
And yes the welding is terrible, my MIG is so old and tired, but does the job well enough whilst I'm waiting for my almost new TIG set to come back from being repaired.

 

It fits on the tensioner really nicely:





But still allows access to the clamp nut:



It also works really well on the vertical cylinder, and now you can see that I bent the handle to avoid the fuel tank:

 

He's a tip for all 749/999 owners.

I've had this Ring rechargeable LED work lamp for a couple of years now, and use it constantly.
The base swivels and bends, and there are magnets on the back and base which hold it firmly:



I find it invaluable in my workshop, but why am I suggesting it on here?
Why should every 749/999 owner have one to work on their bike?

Because it fits exactly, and I mean exactly, into the adjustable swingarm pivot section of the frame:



And from there it can be swivelled and bent to light up most parts of the side of the bike.

 

Thanks @RickyX, they've got to be clean when all you've got to seal them is Grey Goo.

The bearings and flywheel got assembled the correct way round using a new Shim, Belleville Washer and Nut.
Sev's Flywheel tool was then employed to hold it all steady:



I'm keeping an eye out for a scrap piece of steel big enough to make my own now.

270Nm is a lot of Torque to put on a nut, and is 2/3rds of the way up the scale of my biggest of three different Torque wrenches.
This thing is 3/4" drive, over 3' long, and I've only ever used it in the past on stuff a lot bigger than this nut:



Of course to get to the nut inside the flywheel you need a deep 30mm socket, and at 270Nm I wasn't keen to use a 3/4' down to 1/2' adaptor on the Torque Wrench with a normal socket, but luckily for some reason had this in a drawer in my garage:



It's even 3/4" drive, and I can't remember why I brought it, but it's just what I needed.

So that side of the bike is all back together, and I'm hoping to find time over the weekend to do the belts.

 

Thought as I'd drained all the Oil out of the bike a week or so ago that I'd change the Oil filter and refill it.

The oil filter in place was a pattern type with a 17mm Hex on the end to undo it, easy I thought, but it was screwed on so tight it just stripped, and did it again when I hammered on a 16mm socket.
Makes you wonder how on earth it was screwed up so tight in the first place.

I resorted to the old trick of tightening up a large Jubilee hose clip around it(Other Worm Drive Hose Clamps are available) and starting it moving by knocking it round with a small hammer.:

 

When I took the exhaust off the bike these metal and fibre 'V' section seals were in the joints between the pipes and the silencer:



Yet they are not shown on any parts lists I have:



Does anyone know if they are from a different model?
Or perhaps an aftermarket part?

 

I also managed to get the new belts on and tensioned today, using my newly made tensioner adjuster of course.

The long handle is really useful, not because leverage is needed to make the adjustment, but moving the end of the handle a small amount can make very small adjustments to the tensioner.

I much prefer to use a Laptop, small microphone, and The JP Diag software rather than an App such as the Gates one on my phone:



And went from using my largest Torque Wrench yesterday to my smallest one today, 25Nm on the tensioner locking nuts.

With the covers back on the belts that side of the engine is looking decidedly boring now:

 

I also had a play with the Clutch.

Having not ridden the bike I don't know what the action was like, but wanted to check it over, clean the plates up, do the 'Quiet Clutch mod' and install an anodised pressure plate I had hanging around.

After putting the additional old worn friction plate in right at the back for the mod I built up the stack with the original friction plates which are still well within tolerance and most of the original steel plain plates.
I did however have to remove one of the outer two plain steel plates, and substitute two of the originals with 1.5mm ones rather than the 2.00mm originals to reduce the stack height.

I aim for a stack height of between 3.0 and 4.5mm below the clutch centre after the mod, which has worked well on my 900 and two 1000s with both standard pressure plates and aftermarket ones.

I also swapped out the Dished plate with a spare one, as the tooth with the Dot on to denote it as a Dished plate was deformed, had overheated, and turned Blue:



This had also caused an area of non contact on the other side of the plate:



So as I had a spare it really was worth changing it.

I've put it back together with an old aftermarket pressure plate I had hanging around, but the Red Anodising on it is really faded, so I'll probably whip it off again and get it down to my friends at Dorset Aluminium to redo it in Gold. It will then match the pressure plates on my M1000 and 1000/900SS:

 

It's the noise at Idle in Neutral with the clutch out I don't like, this way it only makes a lovely Thrashy Clattery noise when you pull the lever in.

Although I have just fitted a Pink Pressure plate to the bike.

Cheers

 

So having realised I posted the 'Horn' image on the wrong thread

Here it is again: