I entirely agree with Gilps on this. If you're restoring for the fun/experience, that's great but it won't save you any money. As Gilps said, a cheap 'sorted' one would work out cheaper. To put it in context, my DD bike cost over £7k to build from a road bike. To buy one that's already been done would have been £1,000 - £1,800 depending on condition. Maybe £2k for something stunning with every lightweight component and a recent engine build done. Having said all that, I'd love to have the time and money to do a really good restoration but I think I'd choose a bike that had more of a 'base value' and therefore would be worth something when finished.:biggrin:
Gilps, Kenoir this bike is cat C as well . It is purely for fun and if I want to sell it for more I will export it to Poland where they can not check category and bikes sell for more
I am concerned about talk of powder coating engine parts, particularly barrels pistons and the part in the picture (exh clamp) my concerns are compounded by the mention of high comp pistons, these will add too much heat and i think the powder coat will melt. obviously there are many engine paints that will do this job much better and will not melt, i have just used some simoniz engine enamel, good for around 120 deg and gives a nice finish, lots of colours too. might be worth investing in a soda blaster.
Cranked you are kidding right that thing handles like a dream so that alone is good reason to refresh, on top at 37k engine is now getting loose revving to 12k if needed (think ecu does not cut off revs correctly but who cares). However the biggest you are kidding why metal recycling skip? You can sell all manner of crap on eBay man.
Well 11k is as per manual max on it so extra 1k from time to time should be ok. I seen 600DD bikes rev to that daily. However agreed would never do long 12k runs Thing is my carbed monster should be 9500 yet due to typo in ignition it was 10.5 which since rebuild for 6 months I did all the time. All good there.
So long as you are ok with it, i did not know the manual quoted 11k, very suprised. problem is that the rods actually stretch and shrink under load and provided you keep within whats called the "elastic limit" you are ok. also do not forget that the 600 bikes run a shorter stroke so the centrifugal loads are a lot less. my advice if you really intend to keep revving to these sort of values is to get a pair of quality steel rods, expensive but good insurance.
I used to rev my 748SP to 11,500 on the track, but that had Ti rods and valves and didn't do high road mileage. I wouldn't do it on the road on my air-cooled motors:wink:
Well I stopped on monster while SS was a ups moment as in checking top speed and noticing 12k rev's thinking fcuk. I must add it was top speed with luggage so 132 mph indicated and because of bags very happy rear end. Germany.
Spike I will look at ecu rev limit when doing fuelling next year as it might just be wrong . I remember on my 1st monster 750 carbed rev limit was 9.5k however quickly did I notice that you can go over. Accelerate like idiot till top gear 9k rpm then gently keep on opening more it will roll to 10k so 500 over. If you yank it like an idiot it will bounce at 9.5k. Go figure. High comp pistons I will use (probably) are lighter then stock.
As i said, it is your bike, but going through some of the things you have said, 750 monster, is not 68mm stroke, its a good deal shorter, this means for the same rpm piston speed is greater, also 900 pistons are heavier, if you are not careful the piston weight will extend the rod so the piston touches the head, if you are really unlucky the rod will snap just under the gudge pin, messy! As for the high comp pistons being lighter than stock this is a definate no-no on any v motor as it will cause an imbalance at the crank, piston pin and rings MUST be the same weight or get the crank balanced with the new pistons, if you dont do this you will run the risk of splitting the crankcases across the jackshaft opening to the main. I checked my rev counter (electronic) and found it to be reading 10,800 bang on 10,000 so on the safe side, even so on the road a self imposed 9000 limit is my rule, max torque is at 6000 anyway so feel no need to wring the nuts off it, also went to 16t front to discourage such behavior. Are you going to strip the motor anyway? at that sort of miles i suspect it needs mains and shells at a minimum.
Spike do not get me wrong here but if what you say about high comp pistons is correct then about half of 900ss carbed owners here are at danger, fair few monster owners (even more on ukmoc) and we even have a member here with high comp pistons fitted to 848 with no crank balancing. Regarding mileage of SS it is a baby mileage, there is no need to open up bottom end. I know plenty air cooled monsters and SS that done 120k or more and all that was done is service. I seen a monster with over million miles on it (see ukmoc) that had only 3 bottom end rebuilds and 7 top ends in that time. We have members here with new style monsters that done over 60k and going strong. My SS has one issue and that is valves need resetting as they do not make bigger shims then what I have. Now replying to PM
