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Quiet Clutch Mod (how To Page 3)

Discussion in 'Hypermotard' started by Jody, Aug 18, 2016.

  1. As per previous post...

    I'll throw the pics up when I'm done....
     
  2. Not really much to show though is there. It's a bit like taking a picture of a CD.
     
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  3. But if it helps someone out taking a picture of a CD I'm more than happy to help
     
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  4. Id disagree Mr Cream....id like to see what type of plate went in, the clutch being taken apart (quite simple but if I can see pics as ive never had all the plates out of mine yet it'd be nice to see a heads-up) and also pics of the order of them going back in and the amount of plates...maybe measurements of the clutch pack also...
     
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  5. Top tip: A magnet (or even better 2) makes getting the plates out much easier.
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
  6. I'm sorry - id need a photo of that...! :)
     
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  7. I shall post said details in picture form at the weekend......

    Ive had many an issue where I've followed the ' yeah you just take this out and put this in' advice which ends up in a farce as the original advice giver goes 'oh yeah you have to this as well or it won't work'

    For instance, with the clutch it's not just swapping the plate it's not going over the stack size too

    Ive got some little 10mm neodymium magnets for getting the plates out

    People, including me, like as much info on a job as they can get, that can seem silly to others
     
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  8. Ironically that's why I posted the velocity stacks pics....my last velocity stack kit came with a couple of brackets from recollection - this one didn't so I had to make some shit up...so I posted it incase anyone else came across the same problem....

    Totally agree with you Jody - I'm the same - rarely doesn't anything go to plan...for me anyway...
     
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  9. Very true, you should see the length on some of my earlier threads!
     
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  10. Theres nothing like opening a thread to find loads of pics....we all like pics...
     
    #31 comfysofa, Aug 24, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2016
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  11. If it ends up like mine you will have a steel plate left over .
    So friction plate in first , then one steel , then alternate to end of basket , on mine basket was over full with all steels in , there was no room for end pressure plate .
    Clutch wait feels excatly the same .
     
  12. Clutch weight will be the same unless you ditch some doubled up steels to reduce the stack height and therefore the preload on the springs
     
  13. Im 99% sure the parts manual shows only one doubled up steel at the bottom for the 1100 Hyper then it goes friction/steel up to the pressure plate ending in a steel

    So I shall be swapping out the first steel
     
  14. Does it matter what it ends on?
     
  15. Very different from my 999 then - lots of steels.
    If you wanted to lighten your lever, you could try losing one steel and one friction.
    It's very easy to experiment
    yes, steel against the pressure plate
     
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  16. If you have less Spring tension weight would that decrease pack
    friction ....suppose 1 missing steel wouldn't make much difference really , mine has the 1mm bigger Oberon slave so it's a bit lighter than standard anyhow
     
  17. You can also run 4 springs. Works for some but others get slip.
     
  18. Yes, at some point you will get slip. I'm in the low 30s for stack height and getting no slip though. That's with 130 rwbhp
     
  19. What happens if you have a friction against the pressure plate?
     
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