No idea tbh but the pressure plate is alloy, so maybe it grabs if you have a friction plate against alloy.
Done my quiet clutch mod this morning..... Firstly my noisy standard clutch for comparison.... Now to the mod.... Remove your clutch cover, remove clutch springs then remove the pressure plate (The actuator rod may pull off with the pressure plate, don't worry if it does, just slide it out nice and slowly to prevent tearing the o rings) Now remove the clutch plates with a magnet and stack them in the order of removal As you can see my basket has had a bit of a hammering so far (13,000 miles) My plates as removed, notice the 2 steel plates first on the left, these are the last plates that come out/first to go back in. The very first steel is the one we will swap for a friction plate First steel 1.52mm thick Friction plate thickness 2.86mm meaning my stack height will increase 1.34mm Slide the replacement friction plate into the clutch till it bottoms out then replace the clutch plate stack the reverse of how they came out, minus the first steel we removed Button everything back up in reverse order and start her up.... (Yes I left the cover off in case it went tits up and the plates needed to come out ) Clutch works fine and neutral is just as easy to select Clutch may be a little harder to pull because of the bigger clutch stack, but as anyone who opens a pop bottle after me reckons I have a gorilla grip anyway so no worries here I did read that if using an oberon clutch slave the lever span sometimes needs adjusting to compensate, as with the bigger piston it moves the pressure plate less per lever pull compared to standard (because of the volume of fluid pushed trying to fill a bigger cavity unless you span the lever out for a bigger pull/more volume flow per pull......if you get what I mean :/)
That's a nice, succinct description. Effectively, I think you will have reduced your stack height relative to the basket and springs, despite the overall height of the stack itself being greater. This is because the first friction plate will sit lower in the basket than the first steel plate did. The mod works by the tangs of the first friction plate sitting down into the curved section at the bottom of the slots and jamming there, thus curbing the oscillation of the whole stack. When the friction plate sits down into the bottom of the slots, it is lower than the first plain plate was, so because you have removed a plain plate, the stack should be lower relative to the basket and springs more or less by the thickness of the plain plate you removed.
So you had one steel left out ?? Sounds just like mine did , proper chakka chak at idle , it's much better now . You may find it gets a little noisier with a few miles on it ( clutch released ) as the first friction plate in the basket sort of works its way down the curved section of the basket , done about 600 miles on mine since doing the mod and can hear it's got a touch more noise now .... still loads better though .
Everywhere I read said to swap one steel for a friction so that's what I did...... I'll keep my eye, or early, on it and see how it goes
