Stainless are stronger than most nuts and bolts that are steel etc. not that many high tensile bolts used I guess on a multi, and to be honest the strength of a stainless is good enough in the bigger nuts and bolts. They are easier to get out if you have to remove them, especially if wound into Alloy. they look a t lot better and do not corrode, stainless when cleaned with WD 40 come up nice and shiny. I personally think Stainless is the best thing to use, had to use stainless most of the time, I find it hard enough for pretty well everything.
Titanium is extremely light for its given strength-but what do we mean by strength? Thing is, in engineering and metallurgical studies, things don't mean quite what we think they mean. Titanium is hard. Maybe I mean tough though. That's why it's expensive, cos it's not easy to work, not cos it's scarce. Stainless is hard. Maybe I mean tough though. Ever tried to drill it? It blunts bits for fun- even TiN bits don't last. But people will tell you it's softer than MS. First we need to understand the terminology. I think maybe we all should get our terminology sorted before we say it's this or its that. Me included. From a personal experience point of view, when we buy SS nuts and bolts from suppliers, we get either a2 or a4. In my opinion, these are not the right type of bolts for high stress areas. They simply are not up to it. Plus, we need to be careful when mixing things up. At work, wherever we need strength, we swap out SS for BZP 8.8 high tensile bolts. Structural engineers decide that for us. I build large steel structures btw. We could take the science to a whole new level, but it really needs to be understood. We can and do over complicate things, but for my limited knowledge, I'll swap out the non load bearing fasteners, and leave the others well alone. Regards Bob
Stainless steel bolts thread forms flow, this mans they distort when you tighten them up, so they will neither tighten or undo making them impossible to remove or hold the components tight. I have been erecting steel structures, tanks, piping etc for thirty five years. In about 1988 we installed a 40 ft diameter tank in South Wales for British Coal, the engineer insisted on stainless steel fixings so we duly did as we were told. The tank had joints with rubber gaskets so it had some give. The 100's of M16 screws were used as the length of the shank was probably going to become thread bound. As the tank was not structural the bolts were fitted loose then tightened up with an nut runner. When the tank was filled it leaked like a sieve so everyone got a bollocking and we all got wet trying to tighten them up by hand. It was soon apparent the bolts would neither tighten or loosen. The supplier was brought in and we were advised that stainless steel thread forms flow, so at first they appear to be tight, but after a short while flow and the ensuing deformation causes the problem. The supplier told us to not use SS fixings where they had to be done up tight. Now in my opinion, you usually learn the hard way, I have done that and will not be using SS fixings for frame, engine, brakes or suspension. If they get furry or rusty they will be changed with Gr 8.8 or a higher grade than stock with a BZP finish.
Ditto my experience too. We call it "gnarling up" Be nowt worse than thinking ur engine/shock bolts were tight and they actually aren't. Regards
Today people still refer to stainless steel as though there were only one type but there are more grades/variations available today than 25 years ago and as long as you learn and respect how to work it/treat it (generally) and pick the right grade for the job then you won't have any problems. From memory there were at least 3 specs for both A2 and A4 stainless but you hardly hear anyone discussing which type to use or see suppliers bother to even tell you.
In my experience stainless is only good for static fastenings in highly corrosive applications, if heat, vibration or when high tensile strength is required, just swap like for like.
Not going to start beating my chest/quoting past experience as I don't think it would change a thing here - this is just going to be one of those 'agree to disagree' threads, and that is the beauty of a Forum after all.
This is my other toy. All the fixings and fittings are stainless. All that ever fails are the shrouds, which are stainless cables. They fail where they are crimped into their end fittings due to work hardening of the individual strands. Nothing else ever breaks or shears.
I prefer Gold....not in a fastener....Just gold. It holds it's value better than Stainless or Titanium. The right bolt for the right job (as already mentioned ad nauseam). And please let's not get caught up in our own squabbles (round the bend or otherwise) to let Ducati off with the SH1TTY bolts they use as standard....they aren't suitable for THE premium motorcycle of the 21st Century. If only we had someone with loads of time on his hands who was improving our lot with Ducati. Cheaper belts of comparable or better quality. Much improved heavy duty electrical cables. May be a selection of correctly sized, specified replacements bolts, with a Torque guide and matching Loctite. Ti or Staineless or Plated? @Exige
I have A2 stainless bolts on the calipers (A2 is supposed to be stronger than A4 which is better for not corroding)..........@ M10 size they are effing tight after torquing up fine, and they are lockwired as well...........(but they were a sod to drill 1mm holes for the lockwire) I can't see them coming undone and they haven't moved despite some pretty hard braking. When it comes down to smaller stainless bolts they seem to hold their strength when torquing them better than the OEM cheese that Ducati used........and they haven't come undone, yet. However, using Copa-Slip on stainless bolts can cause problems when they are screwed into aluminium because of chemical reaction, so just use high melting point grease instead. Also, another tip which applies to both stainless and steel bolts.......never use a nyloc nut on top of a spring/cut washer .........threads will get mangled.......just use a flat washer.
so ive read the thread, no one's mentioned about using a stressed steel caliper bolt twice!!! surely stainless is superior to a stressed bolt that has been wanged up, stretched and put within 15% of it shear factor ?? if got A4-80's now on mine, a gnats nadger away from being the same spec as the 8.8 hi tensile steel bolts
People here are worrying about stainless steel and its capabilities - I think a few of you should get your aluminium side stands swapped out quick smart then
