I don't want to pick holes or anything but none of today's so called rear sets are in fact rear sets they are just after market replacements for stock pegs set up. At 17 years old rear sets added on to a bike meant your legs a lot further back than the current 10-15mm movement you get and also meant you were more prone across the tank, rear sets took you from sitting up right to laying down. I actually think on one bike the rear sets were fitted where the pillion pegs should have been. Anyway the topic is are they worth the money, as an ex engineer / tool maker, I would say some are worth the £500 asking price, especially those with a nice milled effect as they are probably hand done and it aint no 5 minute job either when done properly.
Cupid, I agree with you entirely. Rear sets were, funnily enough, rear set when I was a kid. That's why I was asking how far back some of the aftermarket ones are now. 'Design Corse' posted pics of some really good looking ones on here but how far back. So basically we're both saying £500+ for bling pegs n gear levers? Think I've gone off the idea. Think I'll go on a carbon frenzy instead.
On our old bikes the pegs were further forward. So rear sets pushed em back a fair bit. Modern day bikes have em set a bit further back so I suppose don't need to much adjustment on them. I like the Rizoma ones eyed them up today in pro twins
Has anyone found satisfactory adjustable rear sets for reasonable money? I want to move the foot pegs a little way back and higher for track and I can't see to Has anyone found satisfactory adjustable rear sets for reasonable money? I want to move the foot pegs a little way back and higher for track and I can't see to find any apart from possibly the Austin Racing ones? Do you know which hole corresponds to the stock poisition on these?
If your about over the weekend could meet up somewhere you can try mine out as I have the rizoma ones fitted
Apart from the lunatic money being asked for bits of machined up ally, the biggest gripe I have is the lack of adequate adjustability provided in the available designs. The 1199 's need to have the fulcrum at 90degrees to the rod at each end in order to get the required distance of push or pull at the gear-box end to swop cogs properly. Even just a few degrees loss of rotation at the gear-box end results in false neutrals and the danger of damage to the box or motor thereby. As well as peg positioning, there needs to be angle adjustment between gear foot-lever and actuating lever-to-rod shaft. Also far better rod length adjustability as the Ducati's own method is a lesson in how to f~ck up a perfectly simple design brief. Gotta go as nurse says it's time for my medication............
I had false neutral problem when I first had the Panni I adjusted the rod slightly so when you tap shift lever you get a more positive contact and I have had no further issues with it. So far I've done 4000 miles with no problems
Thats interesting to hear, I've been having issues with false neutrals lately, especially as my quick shifter hasn't been reliable. Ironically its working again since dropping it in the gravel at Rockingham! Would be good to check out those Rizomas mate will be in touch when we know what is happening this weekend.
I do understand what you're saying CS and am assuming that your adjustment actually achieved what I described earlier. I have tried various different settings on the standard sets the bike came with, but it only works properly in the correct setting, with various glitches in any other. Unfortunately my feet don't find Ducati's prefered setting completely comfortable, with a lower lever position being easier to tap up and down for my old toes. This is not possible however with the little inner lever that actuates the push-rod going too far forward, when thus adjusted, to push the actuating-rod far enough to push the gear-box lever enough to fully engage the next gear. If I adjust it (as far as is possible to so do) to go up the box more easily, then it suffers on the down shift instead. No, the push-rod and little actuating levers MUST be set at 90degrees from each other to give enough degrees of turn to the gearbox gear-change shaft, occasioned by a matching action at the far end on the identically proportioned gear-change lever operating lever (inner). All this could be bettered by a longer lever at the gear-change foot-change end.... giving the rod more push per degree of actuation. (I am not proposing any change to the foot-lever itself, but the short inner lever that pushes the rod). Well, this really only describes what is wrong, not a good remedy. Properly designed rear-sets at a justifiable price is the real answer. Which brings me back to the blingy crap that's touted by greedy machinists with poor design skills, on the market at the moment. Most of them have solid pegs which will destroy the frame-lugs in the event one has an 'off', the gear-foot-lever to actuating lever angle is not adjustable and the rod length adjustment is left as per manufacturer (which in Ducati's case, is crap). 'Nuf said ?
I have Rizoma rearsets on mine, they are quite plain compared to most but they feel nice under foot grippy foot rests and no problems shifting through the gears whether using QS up the box or down with the clutch.
