I also use Coppaslip a lot, the only detrimental thing I've found is that it can "set" in some uses forming a sticky goo rather than anti-sieze, never had it "weld" anything tho, not in 30 years of using it. The Duralac looked the same as it did when I applied it....(like Yellow Baby Poo !)
Round one failure, what’s more i nearly got my 8mm half inch drive socket stuck against the swing arm, mild panic as to how that was coming out but a few taps and it did. A standard Allen key does not give me the correct angle to put a bar on it so I will purchase a straight version and try again. But that’s it, if it stays in it stays there pure and simple.
Failure, nice straight 8mm Allen key with Milwaukee 610Nm impact gun and no movement at all, tried a breaker bar with same result. So now it stays where it is until it “needs” to come out then I will purchase some decent grinding wheels and grind the inside of the bolt head until I can fold it in. Flipping pain.
Ow man - this gave me flashbacks to doing mine!! I snapped a few socket tools before I just bit the bullet and cut through it. Funnily enough it’s the head that seizes not the thread!
Might be a good idea to keep squirting some acf 50 down that hole every time you wash your bike then to repel the water and help keep corrosion at bay
You will need to cut either side of the bottom shock “eye” so you can remove it The head part can then be drifted out into where the shock was The threaded bit undid by hand for me otherwise it’d be long thread removal tool/LH drill bit etc to get to it Sorry to hear it’s not worked so far
With what did you cut each side of the bolt with to first remove the shock absorber? Best to be prepared like a Boy Scout should I every try this. Thanks.
I was probably the first to use this method, must be over 3 years ago now. I used a reciprocating saw and went through a few blades.
Following Dereks posting on it I used a Recipco saw and an air hacksaw when access got tight Patience will be the key....
