Cut a square section (ish) 7" x 7", and acquire some surgical tube. Slide surgical tube onto leg covering calf, place heat shield on calf and roll top part of tube over heat shield, then put socks on. You will need it for BBQ calf with a full 70 termi. Esp when its >30°C I agree about that hugger, but its better than no hugger at all. Marginally.
With the system mocked up I decided to cobble everything together for a quick startup but before I did I had to reset the throttle position sensor (TPS) and make sure none of the wires I'd fannied about with got melted. I had to reset the TPS because this was the first time I had started the bike since the DP ECU was installed. I also tightened both, the opening and closing throttle cables to negate the ridiculous amount of free play but this made no difference so I will now need to get the slimmer R1 throttle tube. I had an old Bluetooth OBDII code reader kicking about I used for the car which can be used for this. You can pick them up for about £5 on eBay. In addition to this, you need a Fiat diagnostic cable which I picked up for £4 on eBay as well as the android app "ScanM5X data logger", there is another app but it's for older magnetti marelli units. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=scantwin.scanmM5.AllinOne Heres what I done: - Connect the positive and negative crocodile clips to the relevant battery terminals. I always start with the negative. - Locate the diagnostic port which is situated in the ECU area. It has a small cap and isn't connected to anything. - Connect the 3-pin connector into the diagnostic port. - Plug the OBDII Bluetooth reader into the Fiat cable. - Turn the ignition on but don't start the bike. The ignition has to be on in order to properly power the OBDII for phone connection. - With your phone, go into your settings and connect your OBDII reader, the password is 1234 or 0000. Mine was 1234. - Go into the app on your phone and connect the OBDII reader in the settings menu by clicking the add ELM - BT paired. - Next up, go into the monitor data logger menu and see what value the TPS is giving. The workshop manual says the TPS should be at 2.7° with a tolerance of 0.1 either way. Mine was 2.0 lol - Once completed, go into the operation tests rest menu, from here you can see everything you can do. Click reset TPS. You should get a message saying it has been reset successfully or something similar. - Go back into the monitor data logger menu and see what your TPS is at. Mine was 2.6° and remained the same after multiple resets. - Job done, disconnect everything in the opposite fashion. I am currently selling a slip on system but I put the silencers on just for this quickie until my new ones come. The bike started on the second attempt after just failing to start on the first time. The bike has been sitting for just over 6 months without starting so having that first failed attempt would have got oil circulating. I was extremely surprised at how much better the bike ran with the new exhaust, ECU and TPS reset. It was much smoother. Starting pickup was faster and there was no unusual stalling/cut out issues. Very happy. @bootsam ha ha I've been well warned regarding the heat which I can now vouch for. I'm not sure the heat shield will make a difference to be honest so I'll just need to be conscious of it. My dad had 3 x MV Augusta F4s with 2 of them being the 312. All of which ran hot and sat between 104°-108° so this is roughly in the same ball park.
Here's a quick video to show the results. My shiny new exhausts have now tarnished to a shiny yellow colour because of the heat. Got that Racebike look now lol. As long as its shiny I'm happy.
Just went through this thread....lovely attention to detail wish i could get some of the parts on my bike as clean....keep the pics and vidos coming...brilliant thread.
@comfysofa don't worry plenty more pics to come. Got loads more juicy parts to put on. Just taking a while preparing things. @Bullitt that's exactly it. Challenging it is but when things come together it's so satisfying. The reflectagold finally arrived so it was time to set about the undertray. Went a bit OTT and it wasn't my best work but it'll do. Hopefully heat will disipate a bit easier and protect the undertray from melting. The tape was easy to manipulate and seems like good stuff, it's not that thick and cost about £5 so we'll see how it goes.
Sneak peak time. If anyone knows of a good repair/body shop in Glasgow hit me up. Need a couple of minor dents sorted as well as a respray on the aluminium tank.
Some useful info on OBDII stuff - thanks. Use jpdiag myself with a lonelec cable which I find excellent and includes the belt tension software which is very useful for servicing - it’s basically a basic spectrum analyser which works with periodic signals unlike most which require a trigger as per pluck the belt which is fine also. Before using them I always check accuracy with a signal generator and loudspeaker. jpdiag accurate to within 2Hz around 80 to 130 Hz but then increases to around 10Hz and by 200Hz some 30Hz out. Not a problem for our bikes since in its sweet spot. Basically jpdiag includes all the functions you’ve highlighted from what I can see and it’s free for a limited number of licences. Use it on my 2004 monster and 2007 1098s tricolore. Use the Glasgow smart repair guys in Hillington myself for paint work and I’m sure they fix damaged tanks.
I read up about Jpdiag a while ago and it seemed good but I was looking for something simple that could just reset the TPS. Once the bike is completed I'll be looking to get the belts done so will likely delve a bit deeper into it then. I gave smart repair centre a phone and the guy said because the tank is double skinned they'd need to dent pull it but doing this would pitt the metal meaning it couldn't be painted. I'm going to take it over on Monday so they can actually see it but because the indentations are minor I might just sand them down and re-finish it for paint.
The belt tensioning harmonic tester seems to work well. The guys at the smart repair centre are very approachable and do an excellent job. Including myself they’ve carried out several jobs for mates on old Italian classic bikes like a Gilera Saturno and hopefully dent pull the tank from a Guzzi super Alci and paint. Mates 1994 1100 Supersport one best of show in its class at Ayr classic show last weekend and was painted by Jamie at smart repair. I also have the Aluminum tank on my 1098s purchased separately - when they say double skinned what does that mean ? My aluminium tank was painted in sections by Jackson’s in Kelty and they did a great job. They may also pull dents as well as bike paints in Couper that do a great job. There’s also another guy in Blairgowrie called Gav that does some fantastic work and will rebuild basically written off bits of rust. Thinks he’s called GS custom but can get the full name from mates but they’re at a rally in Germany till Monday. Gav also does bike art and doesn’t use transfers but paints them by hand. Very impressive stuff.
Regarding the fiat cable used for connecting the OBDII cable with the flying leads. When researching the use of JPDIAG came across a number of people that had inadvertently connected the croc clips the wrong way round. Apparently it takes out a ground return inside the OBDII cable. Easily fixed by bridging across a ground. Don’t think I would make that mistake but you never know especially with someone talking to you. Anyway to circumvent the possibility I removed the croc clips and hardwired a mating connector compatible with my optimate tender cable which is permanently connected to the battery. Still possible if you’ve connected the tender the wrong way round but statistically less likely. If you want to retain the croc clips simply connect the flying leads to a connector. On my monster I simply connect the fiat cable and power from tender cable. No need to lift the tank etc. Same goes for 1098 just by fiddling around the front of the fairing to get to serial cable and plug into tender cable.
@Geoffduk some good info there. Will defos keep it in mind in future. Quite often there are 2 x layers of aluminium sheeting in tanks like this one. Not sure if this is for strength, safety or durability but it makes it extremely hard to roll or tap it out from the inside as there are effectively 2 layers of metal. I'm lead to believe there can sometimes be a slight hollow between layers which adds to problems. Today is a good day. I received my new exhausts which are in very good condition and just need a clean but I'll update pics at a later time. Unfortunately, when I bought the bike the elusive code card was missing which was a bit disappointing, however, a photocopy of the card had been made previously which was included in the paperwork. I spoke to Ducati Glasgow who were helpful but stated code cards are only provided at point of sale and cannot be retrospectively issued. I contacted Ducati UK and didn't receive a reply lol not to worry though. I decided to make my own card. I designed an exact copy of the rear of the card which turned out great. I wasn't a fan of the front of the card so I designed something I felt was a bit more tasteful, simple and OEM. I then used https://www.theplasticcardfactory.co.uk/ to actually make the card which turned out great. Point of sale to delivery was 3 days and that was over the weekend. It's £10 for 1 x card or £7.50 for 2 x cards and so on. I clicked the box saying I had permission to use logos etc but since Ducati UK never replied to me I took the gamble. All I used to make the designs was Microsoft word, Microsoft paint, the internet for the Ducati logo, Google translate and the stock photo editing software which came with my phone. Most of this was done on my phone. The website was easy to use, you just upload the picture and move it around the card template until it fits. I received the cards today and I'm really happy with how they turned out, great quality. I bought 2 x cards incase I lose one lol. The first 2 x pictures are of the OEM card and the last 2 are of mine.
First day off since I got the new to me slash cuts. Finally got a cracker of a day to work outside. The spring tabs on the slash cuts are on the outside of the pipes, however, the 1098 70mm Y-pipe has the spring tabs on the inside. With this in mind I used a cutting disc and cut them off at the tack welds which just left a lump of weld. I used a grinder and ground down the remaining welds and then used a 400 grit disc to take out the deep scratches. The coating on the front of both exhausts had pretty much worn off, whether from heat or improper cleaning I don't know. It was a bit of an eye sore considering the rest of the exhaust is polished so I continued the theme and polished the fronts. I like the coating on either end so kept the rear ends as is, however, I did use some metal polish to clean them as well as the insides. Forgot to get before pics so just got afters. Once fitted, it became clear that there was the common fitment issue where the pipes didn't meet together. This isn't dependant on how the whole system fits because the silencers take their lead solely from the Y-pipe. Another issue which was made clear after start up was an exhaust leak at the front joint between the carbon and metal. You can see the gap where the seal has blown as well as heat browning around the culprit area. Ran out of time today but I plan to drill out the rivets, remove the front piece and re-seal everything using hi-temp silicone permatex. If anyone has done this process I'd appreciate any feedback. Finally, after about 1 minute of the bike ticking over, like an absolute dummy i tried to wipe a mark off the exhaust and melted the microfibre on to it ha ha FML. I'll need to heat it back up and wipe it off when it gets to a liquid state, only this time not with a microfibre lol.
I don't know what you do for a living Wardybud, but you out perhaps to be working in Ducati's R&D department. So much detail and so many changes for the better
I'm enjoying this thread, re the Termis, I stripped down my original cans to remove the catalysts & fit perforated tubing. I welded nuts to the inside of the inlet & outlet pipe & used small domed bolts to hold it together. This makes the repacking of exhaust wadding so much easier.
@PaulPhillips To be honest, I'd be like a pig in shit if I was a Ducati tech lol unfortunately I have no affiliation with the automotive industry nor do I have any relevant qualifications so this is probably a good time to issue a disclaimer that I'm not responsible for any unsuccessful repairs by people who reference this thread lol @Andy 1198 Glad you're enjoying it, as satisfying as it is seeing the bike come together, knowing that people are getting something out of the thread makes it that wee bit more rewarding. My dad had suggested the same system so once I take it apart I'll see what I'm dealing with. Did you use any thread sealant or that? Well what an absolute waste of a day that was. Spoke to the same company that done Robarano's tank but they said they did that as a one off and weren't looking to do anything like that again. I took the tank to 2 x well known places in Glasgow and both of them said that I wouldn't be able to keep the aluminium finish due to weld pitting from dent pulling/body filler. They were also apprehensive about stripping it all down and wouldn't be able to keep the brushed finish. One of the places said they weren't confident on welding the exhaust tabs so wouldn't touch it. I told them money wasn't an option so the amount of labour wasn't a factor in their decisions, well at least they didn't admit so. At this point I'm pretty annoyed so I'll have to do the tank myself. I'll need to rub all the existing lacquer off, remove the old decals, fill the minor indentations with weld, re-shape the affected areas, rebrush tank with Emery cloth, apply decals, get it painted. Some elbow grease is going to be needed for this one.
@PaulPhillips I considered this and asked one of the body shops about paint stripper and they said they would just rub it down. I'll get some and test it in an inconspicuous area to see if it is effective.
I used it on the crankcase and rocket/valve covers on my 748, worked a treat, made life so much easier
