Tempted with these. Bit expensive and shouldn't really have to but will sort the mess out and prevent corrosion long term. DUCATI TITANIUM SILVER REAR WHEEL NUT WHEEL & SPROCKET SIDE MULTISTRADA 1200 | eBay DUCATI TITANIUM 12 POINT SPROCKET NUTS SET OF 6 WITH SELFLOCK MULTISTRADA 1200 | eBay
The manual on my 2012 S Touring shows the chain as a Regina 136ZRPB, could this be a B spec version of the 136ZRP for Ducati? The 136ZRP has gold outer plates which presumably cost a little extra.
And funny enough the gold outers never seem to rust in my cold, damp garage I refuse to spend money on this bike on stuff like this. It will look shit, and thats that, along with the bellypan and exhaust. And they cam have it back at the end of year 3
Bradders if you mean WD40, I wouldn't use it to clean chains as it's not good for O rings. Watch out for siezed/kinked links. Parafins the stuff for cleaning. Just as a side note never use WD40 for cleaning stuff like brake caliper seal eithers, the seals swell up and the brake piston will bind, don't ask me how I know.
This is the reply I got from persons that did my acf50. Not wanting to name names or comment in the company but curious about the reply. Sorry for the delay in my reply. I have now had a conversation with Xxxxxxx discussing your questions. It is suggested that the oxidisation that you see is actually a design of the bike. Certain critical bolts / nuts are made from an Aluminium Alloy and are designed to oxidise. This produces aluminium oxide, that is actual the 2nd toughest element to diamond. This oxide is therefore providing a tough barrier against possible attack. Cleaning / polishing and protecting of any such part is acceptable, but this will need repeating at regular intervals.
Well its sort of right. Aluminium oxide is very tough, which is why its used for sand paper. That doesn't mean they design the bike to have alloy parts that will corrode though All parts (especially bolts) should be plated in some way, usually Anodizing or alodining on alloy. All the steel fasteners should be electroplated. Trying to get stuff cadmium plated these days is getting more tricky because of the restrictions on use of cadmium, so the original way of 'cad and passivation' is less popular. Now stuff seems to be zinc electroplated as a minimum, which is a thin coating. The zinc acts as a sacrificial layer. The big problem is, Zinc plating can be removed with a citric acid. Guess what is in a lot of cleaning products...
If its any help I am having the same prob with my 899, It was only 2 wks old 700 miles and chain and sprocket showing corrosion. See my post http://ducatiforum.co.uk/f11/corrosion-899-a-19406/
Bloody good question, all the bike mags and various online outfits like webBikeWorld have reviewed pretty much everything you could imagine but I cannot find any group test / comparisons on drive chains at all??!! My tuppence worth............the Multi (the 2010's at least [from my own experience] but reading here right through to date) has a lot of parts that just plain have a poor finish, not talking just fasteners and the drive chain as discussed here - check your engine cases (Ducati obviously never heard of etching primer!), take a look at swingarm spindle, wheel spindles, caliper bolt heads....... I had, after a bit of a fight sometimes, a number of items replaced under warranty, most within 12 months some into 2nd year - the bike is maintained and cleaned to an exemplary standard (exactly as I have done with previous bikes for years and years) but this is the first bike that has seen NO winter riding so NO winter road salt and still shown the most degradation of parts. I'm lucky that the MTS is a recreational ride and not my main transport! I have always been, some would say, 'anal' about bike maintenance and cleaning and am fortunate (I think anyway! lol) that I enjoy cleaning/maintaining my bikes.........I take pride in the appearance of my bikes and get satisfaction from them looking so good. Of course when it comes time to sell (I always sell privately and never trade in).....I always get top dollar :biggrin: IMHO I'm pretty damn good at looking after bikes......after years of practice As has been pointed out how you clean, what you clean with and when you clean is very important! Use of a jet washer.....fine with care and knowledge as to where the potential for harm lies (e.g. driving water into bearings, electrical connectors etc) Products........do your research..........Muc-Off and a number of similar products are well known for the potential to do damage!! ACF50....5 star Autoglym products.....5 star FS365.....has its uses if you understand the limitations (washes off with water alone;-) ** WD40.....best all-round'er.....but again limitations (not resilient to washing;-) ** ** great for use after washing. Paraffin (aka Kerosene) - all I ever use for chain cleaning (old toothbrush and rags [no solvent, 'oil' based and does no harm to rubbers, plastics or paint finishes) Seen wire brushes mentioned a few times here.........you have to have a serious problem before a wire brush is needed - potential to do more harm than good to the finish on many parts. Your best allies...............time, patience and........................elbow grease! :wink: Motorcycle Info Pages - General Bike Stuff > Cleaning your bike :-0 Motorcycle Info Pages - General Bike Stuff > How to become a Cleaning Freak... Motorcycle Info Pages - SV1000 Stuff > Exhaust Header Cleaning
Ee that GS? Mine was like that, but with spoked wheels and chromed engine bars, rode thru winer without cleaning and coz ACF when I washed it, with regular method nothing special, it came out like that
Andy. I didn't know you had the full termi. Make no wonder I got that ticking off from you last week when I pointed out that IMHO I didn't like the look of it. I think I may need to go to church and speak to the big man. Sorry pal.:frown: Oh, and what do you know about fitting sat navs.:wink:
