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S4 Monster 916 Won't Start; Immobiliser?

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by RichyThompson, Apr 22, 2019.

  1. Thanks for everyones help and suggestions so far! I found an old laptop I'd forgotten about and managed to get http://jpdiag.akress.com up and running.

    I had the Ebay ECU connected, and that gave me these error codes;
    P0105. Barometric pressure circuit error
    PO110. Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
    P0335. Crankshaft portion sensor
    U1600. Immobiliser fault. (Ecu supposed to have had immobiliser delete)

    So then I put my original ECU on the bike and ran the program again...
    P0115. Engine coolant temp sensor- wondered why I'd never had the fans running...
    P0335. CPS - Looking like the culprit?
    P0120. TPS. - It works, in that its sending a signal to the Laptop.....
    U1600. Mob - the immobiliser/key not recognised issue again, mob has been deleted by ChrisW on this ECU.
     
    #41 RichyThompson, May 24, 2019
    Last edited: May 25, 2019
  2. Reading a lot of tech threads and its amazing how many people don't return to say what the final fix was, or maybe they give up. Read something Derek said elsewhere and realised the components in my error list might share a wire so hunted for shorts.... Found 3 of the 4 wires on the Air temp/pressure sensor were bare and touching some of the time. Sorted them out, but the error codes persist. Also found one fan motor is seized, and the other has weirdly sprung into life... Taken the Power Commander off for the time being, it had messy wiring.
     
  3. Wondering what the common denominator is between all my error codes.

    TPS set perfectly and numbers rise and fall appropriately but JPdiag throws up a P0120 for it.

    CPS all gapped nice and checks out with multimeter but JPdiag tells me its P0335

    Water temp sensor in my cup of tea tells JPdiag the proper temperature of my tea, but we have P0115

    Then the Barometric and Air temp sensor is functioning for the screen, numbers dropping to defaults if you unplug it, but we have P0105 and P0110 so it shouldn't be doing that....

    And if the ECU is at fault then so is the S/H one I bought as the same codes come up. I can add codes, now the fans are disconnected we have P0480

    and U1600 is there because of the imob delete?

    Did the parasite test to see if anything is drawing current hoping it might Show a short or something, You put the multimeter on low amps, connect one probe to battery neg and the other to disconnected neg battery cable. Nothing drawing current with ignition off and ignition on; the interesting thing was that with key sense box disconnected there was .54ma drawn with its fuse in and .34 with the fuse out, about the same current as consumed by 2 old school dash bulbs. Where is it being used? In the ECU?

    I'm pretty stumped.
     
  4. Many errors are spurious showing up after low battery voltages with failed starting attempts. Did you use JPdiag to clear the error codes then see if any reappeared after switching off then on again with an attempt at starting?
     
  5. Hi Derek, appreciate you stopping by and reading my rant! I don't bother doing much cranking these days as I'm not solving any of the issues. Have brand new battery at full strength 13+ and on a tender. Deleted the errors and they come back each time. And they remain the same with both IAW59s, not ruling out the possibility both ECUs have the same fault but it seems unlikely. Ordered a new CPS and new relays.

    The seized up fan seems significant as previously I'd never known the fans to come on and then they suddenly came to life. The wiring to the faulty one got very hot almost melting the insulation and the fuse didn't blow.
     
  6. If the battery wires to the 3 pin diagnostic connector are accidentally reversed it will blow the sensor ground internally within the ECU. This results in the fans running permanently.
     
  7. Yes so I have read, but had forgotten! Interesting because the fans ran when I installed the Ebay ECU which prompted me to clean up connectors, check the relays etc. But now I think about it, they came on on the turn of the key, stopped after a short time and then worked with my cup of tea.


    But my cables (marked Ducati) are different in that they have a red crocodile clip/wire and it does nothing connected to neg but the LED lights up and its all systems go when clipped to the positive and that's the way I've been using them and getting plausible new codes I've set up, and valid values. Tried sending neg via the diagnostic socket as mentioned on JPdiag forums to people who had dodgy leads but it makes no difference.
     
  8. Are the fans controlled only by the thermo switch or do they come on for a short time at start up?
     
  9. Do not connect the black fly lead to the battery negative terminal. A common problem is polarity inversion of the fly lead causing damage to the ECU. You should connect the red fly lead to the battery positive terminal and the black fly lead to a good earth on the frame or engine. If polarity inversion occurs then a symptom is the fans running at ignition on. You can stop the fans running by connecting the Fiat adaptor to the diagnostic port and the black fly lead to a good earth. If the fans stop running at ignition on then polarity inversion has damaged an internal ECU earth. There is a work around that will sort the problem.
     
  10. Hi ChrisW, my cable only has a red positive crocodile clip no black one, I assume it gets its earth from the ECU as it seems to work. To clarify; fan seems to come on for less than a minute at turn of ignition key and then act appropriately according to temp sensor.
     
  11. So she she lives and breathes again! Same story as Carsboatsandplanes really; the ECU must have been knackered and me buying a second knackered ECU prolonged the agony.

    A brand new 'Racing' Ecu from Ebay Italy has her fired up and running. They come with the mob deleted so that was one less thing to worry about. Along the way I've fitted new battery leads, new battery, new CPS, new Plugs, new relays, new fuses, reset the TPS, checked all the wiring and checked the Reg/Rectifier best I can.

    What killed the old ECU? Will it kill the new one? Thanks for everyones help and suggestions along the way.

    At least I now know what's what on the bike and how it all works and have learned some diagnostic skills along the way!
     
    • Like Like x 3
  12. Good to hear. Shame you got sold a knackered ECU but at least you know that everything is now in good order and as it should and you have learned a lot.
     
  13. . Thanks for your help. The dodgy ECU is on its way back to Belgium despite the 'No returns' policy of the seller, he readily agreed to accept the return and refund. I paid £160 for the brand new ECU, there are several on Ebay at the moment as they were packaged with exhaust upgrades and technicians remap the old ones instead.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  14. All good news
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  15. Sorry not been on here a while. Just been reading through after seeing and answering your private message to me. Does sound same issue I had....but I can confirm you haven't bought the same bike.....I still have it and it runs fine. I can talk you through the issue....message me again. Cheers.
     
  16. Hello RichyThompson ! I have the same problem whit my s4 monster.
    After 3 months in which I tried to rewrite the CDI I think it's time to buy another one. Can you give me a link or a site from were you bought yours? Thanks !
     
  17. Hi Popicadi, My ECU came from Ebay.ie. just did a search and there aren't any at the decent price I paid of £175 at the moment, but plenty some there more expensive or second hand.
     
  18. ok! Thanks !
     
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