Sorry guys still on the pivot arm, would have posted pics if there was much to update but bar taking pictures of a bleeding hand there's not much to say. I did think of getting a mate to twist the allenkey end of it as I hammered the other end as I think I'm getting frame flex and the flex just grabs the pivot bolt even tighter. Time to go out and make a friend!
If you can, make a draw bar. Get some hefty threaded rod that will go thru the pivot. Nut on the RHS side making sure its smaller than the od of the pivot. Packing plate on the LHS that will sit over the frame boss. Nut on there and tighten it to buggery.... You can tap it to try and shock it or leave it over night to pull on the assembly...
what nelly said and a shit load of WD40.and the bush's steve mentioned(that look like 5 mm washers) try and give them a 'hit/twat' aswell.
WD40 isn't the best penetrating fluid. have a look at this April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison test wrote: They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. Penetrating oil ...... Average load ..... Price per fluid ounce None .................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................. 238 pounds ...... $0.25 PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds ...... $0.35 Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds ...... $0.21 Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds ...... $0.75 ATF-Acetone mix ....... 53 pounds ...... $0.10 (50/50 mix) The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
Tried having a look around for Plus Gas as that's always worked for me, might have to wait til Monday for the decent family owned motor factor place to open. Might be my mind playing tricks on me but it looks like its shifted about 1mm maybe 1.5mm, WooHoo! Oh, bought a bigger hammer.. The b$%^&*d in question:
I would put the bolt back in and back it out a bit at a time , that way you will not damage the end of the rod and you will here when the bolt hits the frame if to moves. You don't want to splay the end of the rod. Steve..
Yea the damage you can see was when I was using the other pivot rod I have to try and knock it out. Technique at the moment it bolt back on, socket on bolt held with grips and a 4lb hammer.
You might need a blow lamp before long, if so remove the plastic bungs and chain sliders , then concentrate the heat on the swing arm bushes. Good look were all rooting for you. Steve
or even better,with a bit of imagination.you could get it out using your trolly jack(using the hydraulic pressure).get the bike up against the wall,set up the jack so when you pump it it puts pressure on a shaft that fits onto the stuck axle.block of wood behind the jack and pump away.i know it sounds a bit A TEAM,but it will work.
Anything A-team related sounds amazing, might have to wheel the bike outside for that one or will probably end up pushing the bike through an internal wall!! I was thinking of using a G clamp whilst I was pottering around machine mart for inspiration. Just couldn't find one big enough. Like the thought of using hydraulic power though, have a bottle jack knocking around somewhere.... Watch this space.
I think it's been mentioned already, but a length of studding with correctly sized washers and some nuts and bolt it up tight and see if it moves. If not, once it's under tension give it a whack and see if it moves then!
Tomorrows plan. These tools. This gap. Will probably end up breaking something, just hope its not the frame..
If you get it to move just a small amount , apply plenty of penetrating oil and knock it back in then start again, this will help the oil to get further in.
