I think they are 6mm adjuster bolts (10mm spanner??). I'm going to have talks with some of the engineers at work to see if we can come up with a better solution. Wheel bolts were tight, had a job un doing them. There has been nearly 50,000 miles of abuse on that bolt, might have just been its time?
^ assuming that the right-hand adjuster was not affected, the wheel nuts would be tight, but if you could of yanked the left-hand end of the axle back to where it should have been then it would have been loose if you understand. Unless I missed it somewhere I don't know which size SS of yours this was on because I think you own several?
Are they really M6? Perhaps you can tap them to M8 if you can keep the tap going in straight.......... ........investigate the existing thread first though, to see if it can be enlarged.....the boss around the thread looks as though it might be large enough. Ps....If you do go to M8 and get new bolts, try to get the bolt head ground to a smaller hex.......it isn't easy getting an ordinary spanner onto the normal hex size.....12mm I think.
^ ground a custom spanner for mine - the ears on an open-ended spanner are massively overkill for the majority of jobs.
I've done the same............because I couldn't be arsed to grind the bolt head down to the OEM size having assembled the rear wheel etc, before I realised the new bolt heads were larger.
I couldn't move the rear wheel until I un done the bolts. All parts look ok, the chain needs a link replacing, one of the welders at work is going to do that as he dose his for track days (rides an R6). The swing arm will tidy up rough enough. The only thing I haven't looked at yet is the front sprocket area, that's tonight's job. Has anyone thought about tab washers on the rear axel nuts to lock them on??
R Clips and Castle Nuts..............Have you seen the price of one nut (if you can find a flanged one in stainless)?
So then, just to make sure I'm at the right wheel nut tightness, is 76nm correct, don't want it happening again!!
The old manual found online states 68.7 - 73.6..........so 75 ought to be OK....just check the wheel turns OK when tightened up.
Just been out and all seems fine, not given it the full beans yet. Wheel turns ok at 76nm, not as free as I would have thought, but seems ok when on the move. But it's popping and banging again, so looks like it needs the plus out and looking at, always something to do! Thanks all for the help
Just to add insult to injury, I finally tracked down the strange noise the bike had developed since the first accident. The sprocket side wheel bearing had taken a beating when the chain came off. It look alright visually, but it must have suffered internal damage, and this is what it looked like 50 miles later.
